Grilled Octopus
I’ve made this many times, in restaurants and at home. It is full of brilliant flavours and textures: charred, tender octopus, plus fresh, aromatic salsa verde and salty, earthy potatoes. I prefer to use the large, frozen octopus hands, as the freezing helps to tenderise the flesh, and when cooked, the tentacles have a soft, pork-like texture. Start this recipe two days ahead so the octopus is thawed, cooked and chilled, ready for grilling.
Serves 4-6
- 1kg frozen octopus hands, thawed in the fridge overnight
- 500g small potatoes
- Olive oil, for drizzling
- 1 lemon
- Salsa Verde (see separate recipe), to serve
- Salt and black pepper
Take a pot large enough to comfortably hold the octopus, then fill with water. Bring to a rolling boil, then carefully add the octopus. Reduce the heat to below a simmer.
Cook for 45 minutes or until tender. To test, cut a small slice off the thickest part of the octopus and taste it. If it’s not tender, keep cooking, checking every 10 minutes.
When it’s ready, remove the pot from the heat and drain off most of the water until the octopus is just covered. Leave in the remaining liquid to cool to room temperature, then drain, place on a tray, cover and refrigerate overnight.
Light a charcoal grill or barbecue, then let the coals burn down until white and glowing.
Meanwhile, remove the octopus from the fridge and let it temper. If the tentacles are connected, cut into individual tentacles to ensure you get an even all-over colour while cooking.
Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. I like to season the water with what seems like an absurd amount of salt: 250g to every 1 litre of water. This results in potatoes with a fine, powdery coating when they dry, and a deep flavour.
Season the water, then bring the potatoes to a gentle boil and cook until tender – the tip of a knife should slide in and out easily. Gently tip the potatoes into a colander or sieve to drain; don’t rinse, as this will wash off the salty exterior.
Transfer the potatoes to a plate, then leave them to dry and cool. (Potatoes cooked this way are delicious on their own, but are also wonderful on a crudité platter or with a ramekin of aioli – see separate recipe.)
Lightly oil the octopus and place it on a preheated wire cake rack set over the hot grill (ensuring the rack is really hot when you add the octopus helps reduce sticking).
Grill the octopus hot and fast (it’s already cooked through) until it colours nicely and starts to char a little – check the underside by lifting the rack and peeking underneath.
When it’s nicely coloured with an attractive crust, flip it over to colour the other side and warm it through (check this with a metal skewer or the tip of a knife). When it’s done, flip the octopus onto a chopping board.
Put the potatoes on a large platter, cutting any larger ones in half or quarters, then chop the octopus to roughly the same size and add to the platter. Dress with enough salsa verde to coat the octopus and potatoes. Use a microplane to grate the lemon zest over the top, then cut the lemon in half and squeeze over the juice as well. Season well with salt and pepper.
Salsa Verde
Makes about 300ml
- 20g flat-leaf parsley leaves
- 12g mint leaves
- 3g tarragon leaves
- 20g salted capers, rinsed
- 35g drained, tinned anchovy fillets in oil
- 8g garlic
- 200ml olive oil
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 50ml good-quality red wine vinegar
Using a sharp knife, chop all the herbs, the capers and the anchovies (this is a rustic sauce, so don’t get too carried away), then combine in a bowl. Grate the garlic into the oil using a microplane, then gently fold the oil through the herb mixture. Generously season with black pepper. Stir in the vinegar just before serving.
Aioli
Makes about 500ml
- 1 egg
- 10g Dijon mustard
- 10g confit garlic
- 7g garlic, finely grated
- 25ml chardonnay vinegar
- 3 tsp lemon juice
- Pinch of caster (superfine) sugar
- Pinch of monosodium glutamate (MSG)
- 250ml neutral oil, such as grapeseed oil
- 150ml extra virgin olive oil (not too peppery or bitter)
- 30ml hot water (optional)
Confit Garlic
- 200g peeled garlic cloves
- 250ml neutral oil, such as grapeseed or vegetable oil
Put the garlic cloves in a small saucepan, then cover with the oil. Cook over medium heat until the oil is just bubbling, then reduce the heat as low as possible until there’s hardly any movement.
Continue cooking until the garlic is very soft but still holding its shape – about 30-40 minutes. Do not let the heat become too intense or the garlic will colour too much and burn. Ideally, it should retain an ivory colour.
Once the garlic is super soft, remove the pan from the heat and spread the oil and garlic out on a tray or plate to cool quickly. Once cooled, transfer the garlic and oil to a jar, seal and place in the fridge, where it will keep for up to a week.
Beef Tartare
A good beef tartare is a simple, delicious classic, and one of the best ways to eat raw beef. It can be served as a canapé, a starter or a main course, along with all kinds of vehicles to scoop it up or spoon it onto: vegetables, robust leaves, crackers, crisps or even french fries.
A couple of things turn a mound of raw meat into something truly elegant. The beef should always be cut, by hand, at the very last minute.
And although seasoning is down to personal preference, striking a balance is always the key. Find what you like by adding a small amount of each seasoning, then taste and adjust until you hit the sweet spot.
Serves 4
- 400g dry-aged beef, such as rump or topside
- 1 tbsp smoked olive oil
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tbsp hot sauce
- 1 tbsp fish sauce
- 2 tbsp finely diced French shallots
- 1 tbsp rinsed and chopped salted capers
- 1 tsp freshly chopped tarragon (optional)
- 1 bunch of chives (optional), finely chopped
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Trim the beef of any sinew, then cut it into 5mm cubes. Put the cubes in a bowl, then dress with the smoked olive oil. Gently fold in the remaining ingredients, taking care not to mix too vigorously as that can cause the mix to turn cloudy. This doesn’t affect the taste, but can ruin the aesthetics of a bright, defined tartare.
Taste the mix and assess what it needs. For more heat, add a small amount of hot sauce. If it needs more piquancy, add a tad more mustard. More umami or savouriness? Add a splash more fish sauce. Throughout, adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper to taste. The tartare should be balanced, nuanced and delicious. Serve with your favourite vessel, such as the gnocco fritto, and thinly sliced radishes.
Shaved Zucchini and Hazelnuts and Mint
This refreshing salad is a celebration of spring and summer, when zucchini are at their best and their flowers are in bloom. This combination creates great variation in texture, with hazelnuts adding crunch and fragrance, and a sharp dressing brightening it all. With any watery vegetables, adding salt can draw out the liquid, so it’s best to make this salad just before serving. It pairs well with roasted and grilled meats.
Serves 4-6
- 1 handful of roasted, peeled hazelnuts
- 3 zucchini (courgette) flowers, with baby zucchini attached
- 1 large zucchini
- 2 yellow pattypan squash
- ½ bunch of mint, leaves picked
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp hazelnut oil (or olive oil)
- 1 tbsp chardonnay vinegar
- Juice of 1 lemon
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 100g thick yoghurt (preferably buffalo or sheep’s)
Scatter the hazelnuts in a roasting tin, then squash them with the base of a small saucepan. Set aside. Pick and set aside the zucchini flowers. Slice the baby zucchini, large zucchini and squash into thin rounds with a mandolin or sharp knife, then combine in a large bowl.
Tear the mint leaves into the bowl, then add the nuts. Dress the salad with the oils, vinegar and lemon juice, seasoning generously with salt and black pepper. Gently fold the ingredients together with your hands. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Spoon the yoghurt into the centre of a serving dish, then gently layer the salad on top. As you get to the bottom of the bowl, there’ll be some dressing and rubbly hazelnut stragglers – leave these in the bowl. Carefully tear the zucchini flowers into individual petals, removing the pistils, and toss them with the remaining dressing and hazelnuts. Pour over the salad, then serve immediately.
