Arnabeet Mekli w’ Tarator | Fried Cauliflower and Rustic Tarator
Mum’s tarator has a large handful of finely chopped parsley tossed through it, which gives it a freshness and rustic texture that works so well against the fried cauliflower. Although traditionally, the tarator is served in a small bowl beside the cauliflower; we like to drizzle it all over the pile of golden fried florets and scatter with a generous pinch of Aleppo pepper for an extra smoky crunch.
• 2 large heads of cauliflower
• neutral oil, for frying (your choice)
For the rustic tarator
• 1 large garlic clove
• sea salt, to taste
• 4 heaped tbsp tahini
• juice of 1 lemon
• ½ bunch of parsley
• Aleppo pepper, to garnish
• fresh Lebanese bread, to serve
Wash the cauliflower heads and trim the florets, keeping their stems attached. Place the florets in a pot of salted water and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and set aside.
Fill a frying pan or wok with any neutral oil, and bring to a high heat before reducing slightly. Add a handful of cauliflower florets, being mindful not to overcrowd the pan and turning them continuously as they cook. Fry until the cauliflower is a rich golden brown. Remove from the oil and place on a plate covered with paper towels to remove excess oil. Repeat with the remaining cauliflower.
To make the tarator, crush the garlic with salt in a small bowl. Add the tahini, being mindful to scoop from the bottom of the jar to ensure you are not just using the oil at the top. Begin to break in the tahini with the garlic, adding the lemon juice to avoid it from curdling and stiffening. You can also add water and use a whisk to reach a desired consistency.
Prepare the parsley by washing well and removing the stems, then finely chopping the leaves. Add the parsley and combine.
Place the fried cauliflower on a flat plate and drizzle the tarator all over. Garnish with Aleppo pepper and serve with fresh Lebanese bread.
Ardishowkeh bil Feren | Oven-roasted Artichokes
Eat these by pulling away the leaves, dipping them in the dressing and biting the bottom part of the leaf that was connected to the heart, collecting the flesh with your teeth. Work your way into the centre, remove the choke and finally eat the flesh. It’s both an activity and an art and the perfect way to set the mood for lunch.
• 6 artichoke hearts
For the dressing/marinade
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 250ml (1 cup) mild olive oil
• juice of 2 lemons
• 3 tbsp pomegranate molasses
• sea salt, to taste
• 260ml (1 cup) water
Wash the artichokes and remove the stems as well as any discoloured lower leaves. Using scissors, trim the tips of the thick petals from around the artichoke as well as about 2cm from the tips, then place the artichokes in a container with ice and cold water. Place in the fridge for at least 2 hours or ideally overnight.
Preheat your oven to 200°C.
Place all the dressing ingredients in a bowl and combine. Once the artichokes have finished soaking, remove from the water, place them in a baking dish and pour over the dressing, starting in each of the hearts and then pouring the remainder in the baking dish. Cover with baking parchment and foil and place in the oven, reduce the temperature to 180°C, and bake for 60-80 minutes, checking after an hour. They are ready when the outer leaves come off easily.
Remove the artichokes and plate them, reserving the dressing in a small bowl.
Tabbouch w’ Khobez Mekli | Mum’s Aubergine and Yoghurt Dip with Fried Bread Crackers
While baba ghanouj is popular for its smokiness, it is an acquired taste and one we didn’t love as children. Mum created her signature dip instead: she fried the aubergine and combined it with a garlic and mint yogurt, and, at home, we know this as “Tabbouch dip”.
• 8 medium-sized aubergines (eggplants) – seedless variety, with dark-black skin and bright-green tops
• sea salt
• neutral oil, for deep-frying
• 3 garlic cloves
• 500g (2 cups) Greek yoghurt
• 1½ tbsp crushed dried mint, plus ½ tbsp to garnish
For the bread crackers (Khobez Mekli)
• 5 whole pieces of Lebanese bread
• 2 tbsp Za’atar Baladi (herb and spice blend)
• a handful of oregano leaves (optional)
It is crucial to draw out the liquid from the aubergines with salt before frying. They must be prepared in advance, so start by washing them and removing the tops.
Remove the skin of the aubergines, leaving a few thin strips of skin around (like a zebra pattern), as the skin adds texture. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways, then in quarters so you have 4 boats. Chop into large cubes and place in a strainer.
Place the strainer over a bowl and add a large handful of salt. Leave, uncovered, overnight in the fridge.
Tear the bread into large, palm-sized pieces. The inner side of the bread is coarse and that is the side that should be face down when frying. Place a colander over a bowl beside the stove.
Heat up a medium-sized frying pan or wok and add 500ml (2 cups) of oil. Once the oil is hot, reduce to a medium heat, add one piece of bread to test the frying time and colour. Once you place the bread in the oil, tap on each corner to stop it from curling up. The colour of the bread should be golden when it leaves the oil and then usually darkens to a light brown once it has cooled down. Once you get the hang of it, you can start frying in batches of 4, but be mindful not to overcrowd the pan. Leave the bread crackers to cool down and any excess oil to drip off in the prepared colander.
In the same pan, add more oil and fry the aubergines in small batches for about 10 minutes until they are browned on the outside and soft on the inside. Place the fried aubergines in a colander to strain any excess oil further. Leave to drain for at least 2 hours.
To prepare the yoghurt, place the garlic and a generous pinch of salt in a pestle and mortar and crush before transferring to a mixing bowl. Add the yoghurt, using a wooden spoon and beat the yoghurt with the garlic and salt mixture. Once combined, mix in the crushed dried mint. Taste and add more salt or garlic if necessary.
Once the aubergines have drained, tear them slightly with your fingers into the yogurt mixture, and then combine until you have a thick and textured dip.
To serve, place the fried bread crackers on a platter and generously sprinkle the za’atar over, and fresh oregano if you like. Garnish the dip with dried mint and serve alongside the crackers.
An edited extract from Sofra, by Karima Hazim Chatila and Sivine Tabbouch (Quadrille Publishing Ltd, RRP $54.50)
