Al Brown tells Alana Rae how memories of relaxing at the bach inspired his cooking philosophy.
How has the word bach changed for you from when you were a child?
It hasn’t changed a great deal. I look back with such fondness and probably didn’t realise at the time how special those places were. I think they’ve shaped our country’s identity in a sense that it’s informal and everyone is welcome. I guess I’ve modelled my brand around baches because they are places of hospitality. I’ve always felt Kiwis should be waving our flags to say we do informality better than anyone in the world.
In the book, Eat Up New Zealand: The Bach Edition, you mention the “harmless lawlessness” that happens at baches. What do you get up to when you’re away?
When you walk into anyone’s bach or crib for the first time, it’s hard not to think of the good times, the arguments, the fun, the late-night games. All baches follow similar scenes. The first night, you’re opening it up, the mustiness, people arriving. Generally, the first nights are quite big: the zest of freedom to do whatever you want, whether it’s going for a walk or going for a fish. You sleep in, you bake something, people drop in, you read. It’s a place that gives you permission to do whatever you like and not feel bad about it.
This book is coming out in winter. What do you like about this cosier time?
Baches are equally great when there’s no one around. I have a little wood burner at ours, so we get that cranking, go for a windy walk and then settle down. Baches are built for all seasons; they’re places for solitude as much as for entertainment.
What’s your go-to cook for a cosy night in on holiday?
Kina on toast. When you dive, there’s plenty around. I see it as an absolute delicacy like Māori do. Pākehā are beginning to pick up on how good it is. You take the tongues out and when you cook them, they’re a bit like scallops. Then you squeeze the lemon juice on it with the Vogel’s toast – my mouth is watering.
What’s your earliest cooking memory?
Once you connect to being a part of a meal, the memory sticks. We grew up staying in a wooden caravan nicknamed the Pie Cart at the Castlepoint campground. The day would revolve around low tide. The kids would get the pāua and the adults would go out a bit deeper to get some crayfish. I guess the fancy name for it now is foraging, but back then we called it scrounging. The dads would shuck them, then we’d put them through the mincer and light the fire, put the plate on it and make a pāua fritter.
Tuatua and kūmara fritters with egg, gherkin and caper mayonnaise
For me, these fritters come close to a dish that encapsulates New Zealand cuisine almost perfectly. You can substitute different shellfish in this recipe, such as mussels, pipi or cockles. The kūmara helps bulk out the recipe if you are short on kaimoana and it adds a subtle sweetness.
EGG, GHERKIN AND CAPER MAYO
- 1 cup (250g) mayonnaise
- 2 hard-boiled eggs, rough chopped
- ⅓ cup gherkins, finely diced
- ¼ cup capers, rinsed and finely chopped
- finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
- ¼ cup finely chopped parsley
FRITTERS
- 650g tuatua meat
- 350g kūmara, cut into 1 cm dice
- ½ cup (80g) finely diced red onion
- ¼ cup (60ml) sweet chilli sauce
- ⅓ cup (15g) basil leaves, finely chopped
- 1½ tbsp lemon juice
- 3 eggs
- ¾ cup (110g) plain flour
- flaky sea salt and freshly ground
- black pepper
- cooking oil, for frying
- lemon halves, to serve
To make the mayo, mix all the ingredients in a bowl, then refrigerate.
Place the tuatua in a colander to drain, then roughly chop and place in a medium-sized bowl.
Place the kūmara in a small saucepan, cover with salted cold water, then bring to the boil over high heat. Cook for 2-3 minutes until just soft. Drain, spread on a tray and let cool.
Add the kūmara to the tuatua, then mix in the onion, chilli sauce, basil and lemon juice.
With a stick blender, blitz the eggs and flour in a bowl to create a thick batter. Add to the tuatua, then mix through. Using the stick blender, blitz about a cup of the mix, then fold this back in (this will help hold the fritter together when cooking). Season with salt and pepper, and refrigerate.
Place a cast-iron pan or similar heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Once hot, add a splash of oil and cook one small fritter to check and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Cook the fritters to your desired size until golden – about 2 minutes on each side. Serve with the mayo, and lemon halves on the side.
Makes 12 large or 24 small fritters.
Beef short ribs with pumpkin, maple & paprika purée
Beef short ribs are a secondary cut that over delivers when cooked low and slow. It’s all about the simplicity of the two components and is comforting on many levels. Look for ribs that have been cut through the middle of the bone, giving you slabs of short ribs that are easy to handle.
- 2.5kg beef short ribs
- flaky sea salt and freshly ground
- black pepper
- cooking oil, for frying
- 2 cups (155g) roughly chopped onion
- 2 cups (140g) roughly chopped celery
- 2 cups (155g) roughly chopped carrot
- 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
- 2 thyme sprigs
- 2 bay leaves
- ¼ cup (60g) tomato paste
- 2 cups (500ml) red wine
- 2 cups (500ml) chicken stock
- 2 cups (500ml) beef stock
PUMPKIN, MAPLE & PAPRIKA PURÉE
- 600g pumpkin, peeled and roughly
- chopped
- ¼ cup (60ml) cooking oil
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- flaky sea salt and freshly ground
- black pepper
- ¼ cup (60ml) maple syrup
- 250ml cream
FRIED CHILLI AND ORANGE BREADCRUMBS
- 4 tbsp canola oil or similar
- 1 cup (60g) panko breadcrumbs
- finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange
- 2 red chillies, sliced super fine
- ¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 150°C.
Place a large cast-iron pan over high heat. Season the slabs of ribs with lots of salt and pepper. Once the pan is hot, add a little cooking oil and sear the meat on both sides until dark and golden. Remove and place in a large roasting dish.
Place the pan back on the heat, and add a little more oil. Once hot, add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic. Cook until the veges are coloured, then add the thyme, bay leaves, tomato paste, wine and stocks. Bring to the boil, lifting any crusty bits off the bottom of the pan, then pour over the ribs. Cover with tinfoil, then place in the oven for 3-4 hours, checking after 3 hours. They’re ready when the meat is soft and pulls off the bone easily.
Remove from the oven and let the ribs cool in the stock completely before carefully removing and refrigerating. Heat the cooking liquid in a saucepan, strain and discard the vegetables and solids. Refrigerate until required.
To make the purée, preheat the oven to 200°C.
Place the pumpkin in a bowl with the oil and paprika, then season with salt and pepper and toss. Tip the ingredients into a roasting dish, then roast for 40 minutes or until the pumpkin is caramel-coloured and soft. Pour over the maple syrup, then cook for a further 5 minutes.
Remove from the oven and tip into a large saucepan. Place over medium-low heat, then add the cream. Simmer for 10 minutes or so, then use a stick blender to purée until smooth. If it’s a little dry or thick, add more cream or water. Taste and add more seasoning if necessary. Refrigerate.
To make the fried chilli and orange breadcrumbs, place a medium-large frying pan over medium-low heat. Once hot, add 2 tablespoons of oil, followed by the breadcrumbs, zest and juice. Toss the breadcrumbs until they turn golden. Remove the pan from the heat immediately, then spread on a tray to stop the cooking.
Place the pan over high heat. Heat the remaining oil, then add the chillies. Fry for 1-2 minutes, or until they go golden brown on the edges. Remove with a slotted spoon, then place on kitchen paper to drain and cool. Combine the chilli with the breadcrumbs, then toss through the parsley. Season and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 165°C.
Tip the rib stock into a saucepan, then place over medium heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. Allow it to reduce to a sauce consistency.
Take the slabs of ribs and, while cold, slice between the bones to create individual ribs. Place them in a roasting dish, pour over the reduced sauce, cover with tinfoil and place in the oven for 30 minutes until hot.
Heat the pumpkin purée in a saucepan over low heat, stirring as you go, or microwave until hot.
To serve, divvy up the purée on warm plates, add a rib plus some sauce, then finish with a liberal sprinkle of breadcrumbs. A green salad or simply cooked green vegetables would make a great partner.
Serves 6.
An edited extract from Eat Up New Zealand: The Bach Edition, by Al Brown (Allen & Unwin NZ, RRP $49.99)
