Online exclusive
As well as Jennifer Bowden’s columns in the NZ Listener, listener.co.nz subscribers can access her fortnightly Myth-busters column which explore food and nutrition myths. Here, she examines how sushi has become a less healthy eating option as it has evolved to cater for Westernised tastes, and how to reclaim its health benefits.
Japanese cuisine has long been celebrated as an ideal model of healthy eating, with its emphasis on fresh fish, steamed rice, seaweed and vegetables. Indeed, the Okinawa region of Japan, famed for having the nation’s longest life expectancy, attributed its residents’ health and longevity ‒ many living into their 90s and 100s ‒ to their traditional diet rich in vegetables and legumes and low in calories.
However, recent studies have revealed a marked decline in Okinawan life expectancy, particularly among men, with researchers attributing that decline to post-war Japan’s shift to a more Westernised diet. A shift that reflects broader global patterns, as Japanese traditional food is increasingly modified and influenced by Western tastes, including the Western-flavoured makeover of sushi.
Traditionally, a Japanese diet included grilled fish, miso soup, steamed rice, pickled vegetables and green tea. Thus meals centred on whole, minimally processed ingredients, which are an abundant source of vitamins, minerals, omega-3 fatty acids and other beneficial nutrients.
Traditional cooking methods such as steaming and grilling preserved the food’s natural flavours without adding excessive fat or salt. Portion control was another strength of traditional Japanese dining. Meals are served in small dishes, encouraging mindfulness and moderation. A cornerstone of this approach is the practice of hara hachi bu, which encourages eating until you’re about 80% full. This mindful eating habit helps prevent overeating and promotes long-term health.
But it’s not just about health; traditional Japanese dining also focuses on food enjoyment. Indeed, the 1988 Japanese dietary guidelines instructed citizens to “make all activities pertaining to food and eating pleasurable ones”. Thus, a traditional Japanese diet supports physical health and fosters a deeper appreciation for food.
However, as sushi’s global popularity grew, it has been adapted to meet new tastes. Instead of simple small slices of fresh fish (sashimi) or seafood paired with vinegared rice (nigiri) or wrapped in seaweed (maki), Western-style sushi rolls often stray far from the dish’s healthful origins.
Tempura rolls are deep-fried, turning a low-fat meal into a high-fat indulgence. Spicy tuna rolls may seem healthy but are often mixed with non-traditional mayonnaise-based sauces, super-sizing the energy content while making them no more filing. Cream cheese-stuffed rolls and specialty creations loaded with fried onions or teriyaki sauce epitomise how sushi has evolved into a more decadent Western option. Additionally, the portions served in Western restaurants are often much larger than Japanese traditional bite-sized servings.
Not everything about traditional Japanese food is the epitome of health either. White rice, for example, has less fibre and a higher glycaemic index than brown rice (with the glycaemic index being a measure of how quickly carbohydrates in food raise blood sugar levels). Soy sauce, a ubiquitous Japanese ingredient, is loaded with sodium. One small roll can contain over 1000mg of sodium, nearly half our recommended daily limit. Eating too much sodium can raise blood pressure, increasing the risk of heart disease and stroke.
Fortunately, we can still make nutritious choices at sushi outlets and Japanese restaurants with a few mindful choices:
Opt for simplicity: Sashimi (thinly sliced fish) and nigiri (fish atop rice) are excellent options with few ingredients. Choose these for a lighter meal.
Choose vege-heavy rolls: Look for rolls featuring cucumber, avocado, or seaweed salad, which add fibre and nutrients without unnecessary empty calories.
Swap the rice: Choose brown rice as an alternative to white rice, if available. Brown rice has more fibre and a lower glycaemic index.
Avoid energy-dense condiments: Skip rolls with tempura, cream cheese, or heavy sauces and take it easy with the soy sauce. If you crave flavour, add a traditional touch of wasabi or ginger instead.
Practise portion control: Follow the example of the traditional Okinawans and choose small portions while listening to your body’s fullness signals. One or two rolls paired with a side salad or miso soup can make for a satisfying meal.
Sushi ‒ and other Japanese foods ‒ can be an excellent addition to a healthy diet when approached mindfully. By choosing simpler options, watching portion sizes and avoiding calorie-heavy extras, you can enjoy the best of what Japanese cuisine offers without compromising your health.
