Travel: Samoa for the soul

The budding promise of spring is unfurling its splendour, but if the fresh bite of the mornings makes you yearn for a pre-summer warm-up, steal some time for a great-value sojourn to Samoa.

With the winter peak behind us, holiday prices have plunged. What I particularly love about this South Pacific destination is the authenticity of the experience - Samoa has not sold its soul to unbridled commercialism.

Starting in Apia, with a population of just 40,000, get into the small-town swing by joining the local throng at the fresh produce market, where you can bag bargains aplenty.

For an equally indelible insight into the local vibe, board one of the garishly colourful buses that winds its way around the main island of Upolu. Apia's prize draw is the historic Aggie Grey's Hotel which was founded in 1942 by the wife of the Union Steam Ship Company boss. The enterprising Aggie Grey, who died in 1988, established the hostelry to cater for war-weary American troops.

Another famous settler was Robert Louis Stevenson, who became a tenacious champion of Samoan rights. Visit the Stevenson Museum, which is housed in his beautiful old residence.

Upolu has some fascinating natural attractions and one of the best is the Papasee'a Sliding Rock. Set against a backdrop of lush tropical jungle, the 5m stone slide gushes with water, plunging you down the rock and into a pool.

The Cross Island Rd is the key highway that connects Apia and the north to the star-studded deluxe beach resorts of the south coast. Fringed with photogenic tropical jungle, the road is a holiday highlight in its own right. Be sure to stop by Lake Lanoto'o. A scenic 3km walking trail brings you to this brooding crater lake, crammed with goldfish, deep in the central highlands.

If you fancy another unforgettable walking excursion, follow the signposts to Papapapaitai Falls, a sublime 100m waterfall which hurtles into a gorge.

You'll be hard pressed to notice any residual damage from the horrifying tsunami of 2009. The signature properties of the south coast, Sinalei Reef Resort and Coconuts Beach Club, have been fully rebuilt for pampering in paradise. The south coast's combination of silky sands, iridescent turquoise seas and swaying palm trees provide the perfect setting for barefoot luxury at its finest.

I highly recommend mixing the luxe-lifestyle with a night or two in a more spartan fale, for an authentic taste of traditional village living in Samoa.