Hokianga-nui-a-Kupe - the beautifully structured name does justice to this stunning visual setting stepped in Maori and Pakeha history. Even at walking pace around here there is much to learn and perhaps one of the best starting points for a stroll through time would be Motuti Marae on the shores of the Hokianga Harbour.
The marae offers the quintessential Maori experience to visitors and bookings are necessary in order to be officially welcomed. Father Henare Tate, who lives at the marae, says that among the many visitors from various parts of the world it is the French are that frequent visitors. There's a pivotal reason.
New Zealand's first Catholic Bishop, Jean Baptiste Francoise Pompallier, introduced Catholicism to Maori in the Hokianga when he established his first Catholic Mission Station at Purakau in 1838. When the Bishop died in France in 1871 he was buried at Puteaux near Paris and his grave was somewhat forgotten - perhaps because he had been away from his homeland for so long - but about 20 years ago discussions commenced with the Pompallier family and the Bishops of France for permission for his remains to return to the Hokianga.
They gave their consent and in 2002 his coffin was re-interred beneath the altar of St Mary's Church at Motitu.
It is worth strolling a few kilometres around this part of the Hokianga or, indeed, any part of these harbour shores to absorb both the history and the beauty.
