There was a beautiful statue depicting soldiers from every country that fought in WW1. It was inscribed, saying that we fought but are now all friends, welcomed and treasured equally in Turkey.
('Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives ... You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours ... You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears. Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.' Ataturk 1934).
After a very moving battlefield tour we set off home and explored the little township some more. I stick out like a sore thumb. Apart from me there's not another blonde in sight, and I seem to be attracting a bit of attention.
The young Turkish girls follow me around giggling when I smile at them. The older women all want photos of us, and the men point and shy away, murmuring away to their friends. We wish we knew what they were saying! They are all so friendly and helpful, and I really love it here already.