April heralds the beginning of the big red season, and I don't just mean that all the leaves are turning reddy-brown and making things look all autumnal and pretty out there in the vineyards - I'm talking about the plethora of sensational new-release red wines that are popping up on shop shelves.
Having been harvested in 2008 and 2009, lovingly shepherded through a primary fermentation then a secondary malolactic fermentation*, followed by a long, restful sleep in oak barrels before being bottle-aged for a time to settle out any edgy bits, they're now ripe and ready to be enjoyed.
My favourites of the moment include the Mills Reef Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2009, $24 (5/5) - it shows more heft and muscle than Arnold Schwarzenegger did in his heyday, but is softened with some juicy, plummy sweetness, Christmas cake spices, dried herbs, chocolate and smoky notes. Solid yet stretchy tannins and fresh acidity make this an absolute stunner.
The Black Barn Reserve Merlot 2009, $60 (5/5) is blood-black in colour and oozes concentrated berryfruit, plum, pepper and cocoa flavours. Plump, fleshy, gentle tannins create deliciously warming length of flavour - outstanding wine, but there's precious little available, so be quick.
The Penfolds Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz 2008, $49 (4.5/5) is sourced from grapes grown in the little-known Marananga area in the Barossa and this new addition to the "Bin" range has deep prune, pepper, blackcurrant and violet notes, combined with a comforting, medicinal, smoky flavour on the finish. Beautifully balanced and boasting superb length of flavour, it's definitely a keeper for at least the next eight years.
Escarpment's 'Te Rehua' Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009, $65 (5/5) is one of a small, limited production group of single-vineyard wines produced by the high priest of Kiwi pinot, Larry McKenna. This pinot is so darn close to perfection, it's hard to start picking it apart. Forest floor spices (by that I mean fallen leaves, rotting kauri trunks, decaying weta exoskeletons and a whiff of damp kiwi) combine with sweet cherry, plum and cocoa notes. It carries serious weight but in the mouth it has a light, sinewy, rivetingly sexy elegance - a bit like Rudolf Nureyev in a bottle.
*Malolactic fermentation is a process where bacteria are introduced in order to convert excess hard, sharp malic acid present in the wine into the softer, "lactic" acid to create a "rounder" or "fuller" mouthfeel.
When only the best will do
Last week, one of my absolute favourite wines, Trinity Hill's 2007 Homage syrah was named best of the best by Cuisine magazine. The Cuisine Best of the Best award was based on a re-tasting of the top wines tasted by the Cuisine panel of judges in the past 12 months, across all varieties, regions and winemakers.
A best red, best white and best sparkling were chosen and, finally, the best of the best. The Cuisine judges said: "Trinity Hill Homage is a wine of great concentration and richness, but there's also a lovely impression of finesse and elegance to complete the story."
"This is the first year Cuisine has offered the accolade and we are very proud to receive it," responds John Hancock - president and founder of Trinity Hill. "We only produce Homage syrah in vintages that meet our exacting standards; 2007 was an excellent year on the Gimblett Gravels and, as a result, the 2007 Homage has been a winner right from the start." The next Homage vintage to be released will be 2009, in November.
But wait there's more
Hawke's Bay's Gimblett Gravels
Winegrowers Association has released the list of its Annual Vintage Selection. Independently selected from member submissions by Andrew Caillard MW, these 12 wines are seen as the ultimate example of the 2008 vintage from, arguably, New Zealand's most prestigious red wine region. So if you're keen to start your collection - the list is as follows:
Church Road Cuve Merlot 2008
Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Syrah 2008
Church Road Reserve Merlot Cabernet 2008
Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Syrah 2008
Craggy Range The Quarry 2008
Squawking Magpie Stoned Crow Syrah 2008
Esk Valley Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2008
Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2008
Trinity Hill The Gimblett 2008
Two Gates Vineyard Syrah 2008
Unison Syrah 2008
Vidal Syrah 2008
Super-cider
If you're keen on natural, sugar-free, gluten-free goodies then look no further than the Zeffer Brewing Co's range of delicious ciders. "At the moment we produce an apple cider and a pear cider and plan to expand our range this year," says owner Hannah Bower. "We use only hand-selected fruit that we ... crush on site in Matakana and we're super-specific about which apple varieties we use. Our ciders are also unfiltered, which gives them a slight haze, but this means they retain more of their natural cider flavours."
Zeffer's biggest point of difference is its ciders are dry, as they don't add any sugar. The ciders are crisp and tart, making them a great base for cocktails or cooking. "I used them in cocktails at the Mangawhai Wine and Food Festival recently and they sold out!" laughs Hannah. "I also used the pear cider to bake a pork belly roast last night with a bit of garlic and it was amazing. Plus I've done a roast chicken covered in streaky bacon and cooked in a combo of pear cider, orange, cardamom and garlic - gorgeous." www.zeffer.co.nz
Red alert in the wine store
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