Beijing: Beating heart of the dragon

When in Beijing, you may think you have arrived at the centre of the universe. Thronging with crowds and surging with economic activity, Beijing's transformation into a cutting-edge mega-city is unmistakable. But it's the imperial history and cultural riches of the Chinese capital that deserve to be admired first. Invaded by Genghis Khan, esteemed by Marco Polo, reconstructed by the Ming dynasty, courted by the West and plunged into chaos by Chairman Mao - Beijing's history is quite astounding.
Start at Tiananmen Square, the sprawling concrete canvas in the heart of Beijing, punctuated by memorials and monstrosities. If you wake up early enough, head to the square for the flag-raising ceremony at sunrise. Performed by a troop of People's Liberation Army soldiers, the goose-stepping and military precision makes for quite a spectacle.
The Great Hall of the People, which bounds the western side of the square, is the 1959 monolith that houses the national congress. Tiananmen actually refers to the Ming dynasty gate at the entrance to the square where Mao Zedong proclaimed the founding of the People's Republic in 1949. A huge portrait of Mao remains hanging from the gate, while across the square his mausoleum attracts enormous crowds.
Flanked by revolutionary statues, the building contains the mummified body of Chairman Mao, which is on show in his refrigerated crystal casket. Surly white-gloved guards do their best to keep the conveyer belt of humanity shuffling past the casket at pace. And then it's on to the trinket room, where you can buy all manner of Mao-emblazoned souvenirs.
Then it's on to the Forbidden City, the power base of dynastic rule for 500 years. Twenty four Ming and Qing emperors called the shots from this colossal palace complex, until the Cultural Revolution in 1911. Laid out in 1406 by the Ming emperor Yongle, the exterior wall adjoining the moat was assembled from 12 million bricks- the largest surviving city wall in Beijing.
The size of this power dome is truly astounding. It's no wonder a permanent restoration squad is deployed to repaint and repair the Forbidden City, year-round. The Hall of Supreme Harmony, first built 600 years ago, was pain-stakingly restored to its gleaming best for the Beijing Olympics.
This sublime structure played host to the most significant imperial ceremonies. The lavishly ornate Dragon Throne is where the emperor would preside over his fawning officials.
China's economic might has mobilised millions out of poverty, enabling them to see these sights for the first time in their lives. To beat the crowds, arrive by 9am.

Historic hutongs

Beijing's residential heartbeat can be found in the  hutongs (narrow streets), just north of the Forbidden City.

The network of winding alleyways date back  more than 800 years to Kublai Khan's transformation of the city, following the Mongol invasion.

These enchanting passageways are best explored by hiring a  bicycle rickshaw and English-speaking guide. (Don't worry, the rickshaw owner will do all the peddling, so sit back and survey the sites.)

In fact, the rickshaw hire business has provided thousands of unqualified local  men with a burgeoning income stream in recent years.

The labyrinth of lanes are lined with most of the city's oldest homes and architectural quirks. This is the district that boasts Beijing's grandest and most historic courtyard homes, which you'll get a chance to admire first-hand.

The level of ornamentation on the frontage of the homes, traditionally denotes the original  occupant's social rank and status.

The  hutongs  are speckled with local artisans and their studios and authentic small restaurants. This is just the place to admire or buy some beautiful  paintings on rice-paper, silk work and of course, some tasty morsels. Your guide will happily arrange for you to enjoy an authentic  hutong lunch in a courtyard house. I've never enjoyed dumplings and crysthanamum tea so much.
TOP TIPS
* Great-value guided sightseeing tours of the Forbidden City and historic  hutongs will certainly accentuate your cultural understanding of Beijing's history. Pre-arrange your excursions with Adventure World. Call 0800 238 368 or visit www.adventureworld.co.nz
* At the heart of the action, the Hilton Wangfujing is repeatedly voted  the world's leading lifestyle hotel (World Travel Awards). Boasting some of Beijing's largest hotel rooms, its contemporary open-plan design features homely furnishings, 42-inch flat-screen TVs, iPod docking stations, a walk-in rain shower and heavenly bedding.  The  Chynna Restaurant which serves up the best golden duck in town, is wowing food critics.
www.hilton.co.uk/wangfujing