Back for its second year, Viva’s Wine Awards are a celebration of excellence in the New Zealand wine-making industry. Wine editor Dr Jo Burzynska had the difficult task of selecting New Zealand’s 50 most exciting wineries for 2024, as well as awarding some special categories, like best new winery. All of the wineries included produce "truly exciting wine". Enjoy!
Dr Jo Burzynska, wine editor
Every year my thrill list of wineries gets longer, making the task of selecting just 50 of the most exciting an incredibly hard one. However, the tough calls have been made and I am excited to present the producers whose wines I’ve found most compelling over the past 12 months.
This list reflects the current dynamic wine scene in New Zealand. There are established names that continue to refine and innovate in order to take their wines to new heights. Also represented is the new wave of wineries. Some have been started by those who’ve honed their skills, or indeed still have day jobs, at larger wineries. Others have returned or arrived from overseas to apply the knowledge gained there to making wine in Aotearoa.
One theme that has emerged more clearly than ever this year, is that many wineries that made this top 50 make all or some of their wines using organic grapes, over 60 per cent in fact. Perhaps this is no surprise as organic grape growing requires the kind of close attention that can also result in sensitively made wines. However, it also reflects the growing adoption of organic practices across the country, which has seen the number of organic wineries in New Zealand grow by a substantial 13 per cent since 2021 to number 116, while 16 per cent of wineries now have at least one organic label.
This list comprises wineries whose total production offers excellence, enjoyment and interest at every level. One of the most thrilling things that these wineries have harnessed is the expression of the distinctive places in which their grapes are grown. This could be a blend that represents an entire region. Or as in the case of many of the wines I’ve recommended from each producer, a single vineyard or even block, which shine a spotlight on the aromas, flavours and textures of a small, special piece of land. These wineries illustrate what is truly exciting in wine in Aotearoa today: the discovery of the unique and varied taste of its land.
RIPPON VINEYARD
Wānaka, Central Otago
★ SUPREME WINNER
Rippon, a four generation estate in Wānaka, is a place where land and people are deeply connected. Nick Mills returned to the family vineyard over two decades ago after refining his winegrowing craft in France. His family has farmed this land for over a century, while his father planted the first vines here in the 1970s, long before Central Otago’s wine potential had been recognised.
Rippon’s ethos is farming biodynamically to make wines that truly reflect this land, a cool schist site on the banks of Lake Wānaka. This is something that Nick and his team have consistently achieved in wines such as the Mature Vine Pinot Noir. The cornerstone of Rippon’s offerings, Nick describes it as "the farm’s voice”, in being a blend of parcels of grapes from across the entire property.
Since his return, Nick has kept his eye on certain blocks that produce wines displaying what he describes as “immutable textural markers despite vintage vagaries”. When confident in their consistency, he released two of these individual parcels as Tinker’s Field and Emma’s Block from the 2008 vintage, and in 2019 made the first standalone wine from Lolo’s Block. Such attention to the land is key to the excitement of Rippon’s wines, unlocking the distinctive character of its site down to tiny areas.
Nick encourages everyone who works at Rippon to feel this connection with the place, recently creating a camping area at the vineyard where team members who live offsite can “come and feel the same sense of belonging”. He’s also looking forward to reconnecting with the people who enjoy Rippon's wines around the world and transmitting this back to his team. “It’s a real validation of what you’re doing when you see the enjoyment the wines bring,” he says. Rippon.co.nz
A standout wine to try:
A taut energy ripples through the Rippon “Rippon” Mature Vine Lake Wānaka Central Otago Pinot Noir 2020, $88, in a wine that in this youthful period is driven by the freshness of its cherry fruit over notes of stone and savoury herb. With an understated intensity, this will age beautifully as demonstrated by decades of past vintages.
RIPPON VINEYARD
Wānaka, Central Otago
★ SUPREME WINNER
Rippon, a four generation estate in Wānaka, is a place where land and people are deeply connected. Nick Mills returned to the family vineyard over two decades ago after refining his winegrowing craft in France. His family has farmed this land for over a century, while his father planted the first vines here in the 1970s, long before Central Otago’s wine potential had been recognised.
Rippon’s ethos is farming biodynamically to make wines that truly reflect this land, a cool schist site on the banks of Lake Wānaka. This is something that Nick and his team have consistently achieved in wines such as the Mature Vine Pinot Noir. The cornerstone of Rippon’s offerings, Nick describes it as “the farm’s voice”, in being a blend of parcels of grapes from across the entire property.
Since his return, Nick has kept his eye on certain blocks that produce wines displaying what he describes as “immutable textural markers despite vintage vagaries”. When confident in their consistency, he released two of these individual parcels as Tinker’s Field and Emma’s Block from the 2008 vintage, and in 2019 made the first standalone wine from Lolo’s Block. Such attention to the land is key to the excitement of Rippon’s wines, unlocking the distinctive character of its site down to tiny areas.
Nick encourages everyone who works at Rippon to feel this connection with the place, recently creating a camping area at the vineyard where team members who live offsite can “come and feel the same sense of belonging”. He’s also looking forward to reconnecting with the people who enjoy Rippon's wines around the world and transmitting this back to his team. “It’s a real validation of what you’re doing when you see the enjoyment the wines bring,” he says. Rippon.co.nz
A standout wine to try:
A taut energy ripples through the Rippon “Rippon” Mature Vine Lake Wānaka Central Otago Pinot Noir 2020, $88, in a wine that in this youthful period is driven by the freshness of its cherry fruit over notes of stone and savoury herb. With an understated intensity, this will age beautifully as demonstrated by decades of past vintages.
Presented in alphabetical order.
Presented in alphabetical order.
Top 10
ATA RANGI
Martinborough
★ BEST FOR PINOT NOIR
Ata Rangi’s outstanding Estate Pinot Noir is now complemented by a series of limited-release pinot noirs from distinct sites in the Martinborough Terrace. Vine age is enabling this historic winery to reveal diverse aromatic and flavour profiles, making Ata Rangi one of New Zealand’s most captivating pinot noir producers.
Winemaker Helen Masters emphasises Ata Rangi’s commitment to continually exploring the essence of Martinborough pinot noir, regarding it as a “living, moving reality”. As a Martinborough pioneer, Ata Rangi may have a long history in the region, but Masters continues to innovate, asserting that “nothing remains the same, and sometimes you need to tip things on their head to see it more clearly”.
Top 10
ATA RANGI
Martinborough
★ BEST FOR PINOT NOIR
Ata Rangi’s outstanding Estate Pinot Noir is now complemented by a series of limited-release pinot noirs from distinct sites in the Martinborough Terrace. Vine age is enabling this historic winery to reveal diverse aromatic and flavour profiles, making Ata Rangi one of New Zealand’s most captivating pinot noir producers.
Winemaker Helen Masters emphasises Ata Rangi’s commitment to continually exploring the essence of Martinborough pinot noir, regarding it as a “living, moving reality”. As a Martinborough pioneer, Ata Rangi may have a long history in the region, but Masters continues to innovate, asserting that “nothing remains the same, and sometimes you need to tip things on their head to see it more clearly”.
Top 10
BILANCIA
Hawke’s Bay
Some tough vintages in Hawke’s Bay called for some hard decisions by Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson at Bilancia, who decided not to make their flagship La Collina Syrah in 2022 and 2023. “Our history with our own vineyard enables us to make these tough but necessary decisions in those years,” explains Lorraine, who was not prepared to compromise the quality of one of the country’s top expressions of the variety.
On the positive side, Bilancia’s burgeoning single vineyard series showcasing small, unique sites from beyond their own estate, delivered some great chardonnay from the 2022 vintage. And from 2024 La Collina is back, along with a new single vineyard chardonnay in their range.
Top 10
BILANCIA
Hawke’s Bay
Some tough vintages in Hawke’s Bay called for some hard decisions by Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson at Bilancia, who decided not to make their flagship La Collina Syrah in 2022 and 2023. “Our history with our own vineyard enables us to make these tough but necessary decisions in those years,” explains Lorraine, who was not prepared to compromise the quality of one of the country’s top expressions of the variety.
On the positive side, Bilancia’s burgeoning single vineyard series showcasing small, unique sites from beyond their own estate, delivered some great chardonnay from the 2022 vintage. And from 2024 La Collina is back, along with a new single vineyard chardonnay in their range.
Top 10
BLACK ESTATE
North Canterbury
Black Estate’s attentive vineyard focus and thoughtful process of continuous refinement has led the family-owned winery to produce some of the country’s most expressive and exciting wines. Run by Nicholas Brown and Pen Naish, it employs organic, biodynamic and regenerative farming practices and was certified by Demeter last year.
Making mostly single site expressions, its wines hail from its three small vineyards. All are made from yeasts propagated in the vineyards themselves to clearly reveal the sites’ distinctive characters. Not wanting to force a style on these, Nicholas’s winemaking has a light touch, with minimal intervention and additions.
Black Estate restaurant's dry aged snapper with sorrel buttermilk and Home Chardonnay 2023.
Black Estate restaurant's dry aged snapper with sorrel buttermilk and Home Chardonnay 2023.
Top 10
BLACK ESTATE
North Canterbury
Black Estate’s attentive vineyard focus and thoughtful process of continuous refinement has led the family-owned winery to produce some of the country’s most expressive and exciting wines. Run by Nicholas Brown and Pen Naish, it employs organic, biodynamic and regenerative farming practices and was certified by Demeter last year.
Making mostly single site expressions, its wines hail from its three small vineyards. All are made from yeasts propagated in the vineyards themselves to clearly reveal the sites’ distinctive characters. Not wanting to force a style on these, Nicholas’s winemaking has a light touch, with minimal intervention and additions.
Top 10
CHURTON
Marlborough
Churton’s elegant and distinctive wines are the fruits of its mature Waihopai hillside vineyard, and the dedication of the Weaver family. For the past 25 years, their attentive biodynamic approach, and the low-intervention winemaking this permits, has resulted in wines that clearly transmit Churton’s exciting site.
“The vineyard has settled into its own skin,” says Churton founder Sam Weaver, noting the “consistency in the expression of the vineyard’s personality and style in the last five to 10 years.” This is now being harnessed in Churton’s wines through the mindful work of Sam’s son Ben, who took over the winemaking five years ago.
Top 10
CHURTON
Marlborough
Churton’s elegant and distinctive wines are the fruits of its mature Waihopai hillside vineyard, and the dedication of the Weaver family. For the past 25 years, their attentive biodynamic approach, and the low-intervention winemaking this permits, has resulted in wines that clearly transmit Churton’s exciting site.
“The vineyard has settled into its own skin,” says Churton founder Sam Weaver, noting the “consistency in the expression of the vineyard’s personality and style in the last five to 10 years”. This is now being harnessed in Churton’s wines through the mindful work of Sam’s son Ben, who took over the winemaking five years ago.
Top 10
FELTON ROAD
Bannockburn, Central Otago
Continuity and humility are two of the factors Felton Road winemaker Blair Walter (pictured, above) attributes to the consistency and quality of wines from this iconic Bannockburn estate. Blair has been there from the start in 1996, and many other staff for decades.
“There’s no room for excessive ambition or ego,” he says. “The wines shouldn’t feel pushed or forced, and possess precision, detail and finesse.” This may make them more subtle, “but the integrity and honesty will always win through,” he says. This combination sees Felton Road’s wines both possess a signature elegance and energy, while expressing Bannockburn’s characteristic depth of fruit.
Top 10
FELTON ROAD
Bannockburn, Central Otago
Continuity and humility are two of the factors Felton Road winemaker Blair Walter (pictured, above) attributes to the consistency and quality of wines from this iconic Bannockburn estate. Blair has been there from the start in 1996, and many other staff for decades.
“There’s no room for excessive ambition or ego,” he says. “The wines shouldn’t feel pushed or forced, and possess precision, detail and finesse.” This may make them more subtle, “but the integrity and honesty will always win through,” he says. This combination sees Felton Road’s wines both possess a signature elegance and energy, while expressing Bannockburn’s characteristic depth of fruit.
Top 10
Greywacke
Marlborough
Kevin Judd moved to Marlborough in 1985 to oversee the first ever vintage of Cloudy Bay. After 25 vintages there, he started Greywacke, to make his own “really good Marlborough wine”. Hitting the ground running, he knew what subregions would give him the grapes for the styles he wanted to make, and the importance of working with growers who shared his quality mentality.
The precision and quality of Greywacke’s wines now sees them exported to 50 countries. Judd has stepped back from the commercial side of the business, and Richelle Tyney manages the winemaking. However, in the role he jokingly describes as “creative director”, he’s as hands-on as ever, and can still be found sampling grapes at vintage to ascertain the all-important time to pick.
Top 10
Greywacke
Marlborough
Kevin Judd moved to Marlborough in 1985 to oversee the first ever vintage of Cloudy Bay. After 25 vintages there, he started Greywacke, to make his own “really good Marlborough wine”. Hitting the ground running, he knew what subregions would give him the grapes for the styles he wanted to make, and the importance of working with growers who shared his quality mentality.
The precision and quality of Greywacke’s wines now sees them exported to 50 countries. Judd has stepped back from the commercial side of the business, and Richelle Tyney manages the winemaking. However, in the role he jokingly describes as “creative director”, he’s as hands-on as ever, and can still be found sampling grapes at vintage to ascertain the all-important time to pick.
Top 10
NEUDORF
Nelson
Neudorf is coming to the end of a major transition, as founders Tim and Judy Finn have passed the running of the business to their daughter Rosie (pictured, right) and winemaker Todd Stevens (pictured above left, with viticulturist Stef Brockley). The quality of this now solar-powered winery continues to impress. Long behind one of the country’s top chardonnays, it’s now making a growing range of benchmarks for the variety. It’s also excelling with the relative New Zealand newcomer albariño, a robust variety in the vineyard that the Finns originally planted to mitigate against climate change. Now one of the finest in the country, Neudorf’s albariño highlights the potential of the variety to make world-class examples in Aotearoa.
Top 10
NEUDORF
Nelson
Neudorf is coming to the end of a major transition, as founders Tim and Judy Finn have passed the running of the business to their daughter Rosie (pictured, right) and winemaker Todd Stevens (pictured above left, with viticulturist Stef Brockley). The quality of this now solar-powered winery continues to impress. Long behind one of the country’s top chardonnays, it’s now making a growing range of benchmarks for the variety. It’s also excelling with the relative New Zealand newcomer albariño, a robust variety in the vineyard that the Finns originally planted to mitigate against climate change. Now one of the finest in the country, Neudorf’s albariño highlights the potential of the variety to make world-class examples in Aotearoa.
Top 10
PROPHET’S ROCK
Central Otago
At Prophet’s Rock, Paul Pujol makes Central Otago wines with a French philosophy and a focus on expressing place. Spending his formative years making wine in France, Paul became the first non-family winemaker at Alsace’s Kuentz-Bas since 1795. Unsurprisingly, Paul makes some of the finest New Zealand examples of classic Alsatian varieties, such as a pinot gris I’d wager would convert anyone to the variety. In recent years the French influence has expanded through a collaboration between Paul and respected Burgundian François Millet, formerly winemaker at the legendary Comte George de Vogüé. This has resulted in the stunning Cuvee Antipodes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Prophet's Rock winemaker Paul Pujol.
Prophet's Rock winemaker Paul Pujol.
Top 10
PROPHET’S ROCK
Central Otago
At Prophet’s Rock, Paul Pujol makes Central Otago wines with a French philosophy and a focus on expressing place. Spending his formative years making wine in France, Paul became the first non-family winemaker at Alsace’s Kuentz-Bas since 1795. Unsurprisingly, Paul makes some of the finest New Zealand examples of classic Alsatian varieties, such as a pinot gris I’d wager would convert anyone to the variety. In recent years the French influence has expanded through a collaboration between Paul and respected Burgundian François Millet, formerly winemaker at the legendary Comte George de Vogüé. This has resulted in the stunning Cuvee Antipodes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Top 10
A THOUSAND GODS
Marlborough
From Best New Winery of 2023 in Viva’s NZ Wine Awards, to the Top 10 in 2024, A Thousand Gods epitomises the exciting new wave of wineries causing ripples of excitement from the fringes of New Zealand wine. Lauren and Simon Sharpe (pictured) both made wine in France for a decade, before moving back to New Zealand in 2020, where Simon was raised.
They take sauvignon seriously, making the taut and minerally Blanc, and richer skin-contact amphora-fermented Giara, as well as other fascinating wines, all from the organic Churton vineyard. Focused on “zero-zero” wines, with no additions or filtration, they have already succeeded in their aim to show that natural wines can be fine wines.
Top 10
A THOUSAND GODS
Marlborough
From Best New Winery of 2023 in Viva’s NZ Wine Awards, to the Top 10 in 2024, A Thousand Gods epitomises the exciting new wave of wineries causing ripples of excitement from the fringes of New Zealand wine. Lauren and Simon Sharpe (pictured) both made wine in France for a decade, before moving back to New Zealand in 2020, where Simon was raised.
They take sauvignon seriously, making the taut and minerally Blanc, and richer skin-contact amphora-fermented Giara, as well as other fascinating wines, all from the organic Churton vineyard. Focused on “zero-zero” wines, with no additions or filtration, they have already succeeded in their aim to show that natural wines can be fine wines.
Presented in alphabetical order.
Presented in alphabetical order.
Amoise's Amy Farnsworth.
Amoise's Amy Farnsworth.
11
AMOISE
Hawke’s Bay
Pure, expressive, and interesting, every single Amoise wine released over the past 12 months has had me reaching for another glass. This feat is even more impressive as all of these wines came from the challenging 2023 vintage in the Hawke’s Bay region, where Amy Farnsworth sources Amoise’s organic fruit.
12
ASHLEIGH BARROWMAN
Marlborough
★ NEW WINERY TO WATCH
After honing her skills working for some of the world’s legendary small organic domains, Ashleigh Barrowman returned home to Marlborough, releasing the first wine under her own name in 2021. Her skill and philosophy of making her wines from organic single vineyard grapes with minimal intervention, including no new oak, has resulted in some of Aotearoa’s most exciting new releases.
Astrolabe founders Simon and Jane Waghorn.
Astrolabe founders Simon and Jane Waghorn.
13
ASTROLABE
Marlborough
★ BEST FOR SAUVIGNON
Family-run Astrolabe does a lot of things really well. Led by veteran winemaker Simon Waghorn, its sauvignon blancs continue to excel, from its main release to reserves. These can now be sampled at its Small Town Winery, Marlborough’s first urban winery and Astrolabe’s cellar door where it makes all its handpicked wines. Try the elderflower-infused and gooseberry-fruited Astrolabe Awatere Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023, which combines classic Marlborough vibrancy with a minerally elegance.
14
BLACK BARN
Hawke’s Bay
Growing from the 1940s Lombardi winery site, Black Barn has been making its food-friendly wines since 2003. These can once again be enjoyed at its cellar door restaurant that has re-opened following a huge fire there in 2021. Syrah and chardonnay are its stars, as well as the eclectic limited-release blend, Concetta.
Blank Canvas' Matt Thomson and Sophie Parker-Thomson.
Blank Canvas' Matt Thomson and Sophie Parker-Thomson.
15
BLANK CANVAS
Marlborough
Masters of Wine Sophie Parker-Thomson, and Science, Matt Thomson, make an extensive and characterful array of wines from single vineyards. These span their Marlborough base to Hawke’s Bay and Central Otago where they work with long-term grower partners with a focus on making wine from exceptional sites.
16
CAMBRIDGE ROAD
Martinborough
★ BEST FOR THE ADVENTUROUS DRINKER
There’s plenty to excite and challenge among the wines of Lance Redgewell, which span edgy skin-contact takes on sauvignon blanc and eclectic field blends, to punchy pet nats. Look out this spring for some new releases aged in native wood. Redgewell says the 1930s totara casks “offer a connection to the land and the spirit of place that imported wood simply does not”.
17
CHURCH ROAD
Hawke’s Bay
At the historic Church Road winery, winemaker Chris Scott and his team continue to make impressive wines at all levels. Syrah and chardonnay are in the ascendant with new plantings of both being made in its key vineyards. Church Road’s Bordeaux blends continue to shine in the years that suit these varieties.
18
CLOUDY BAY
Marlborough/Central Otago
At the winery that was instrumental in putting New Zealand sauvignon blanc on the world’s fine wine map, styles continue to be refined. Its newer vineyard in Central Otago is now farmed organically with organic practices increasingly used in Marlborough to mitigate a change of flavour profile in its wines.
Award-winning Craggy Range Restaurant offers regionally inspired food alongside Craggy Range wines.
Award-winning Craggy Range Restaurant offers regionally inspired food alongside Craggy Range wines.
19
CRAGGY RANGE
Hawke’s Bay
Changes have been afoot at Craggy Range, with the departure of head winemaker Julian Grounds and former assistant winemaker and New Zealand Young Winemaker of the Year Ben Tombs taking his place. Expect a continued focus on expression of place and some fine tuning and subtle evolutions, says Ben.
20
Čuvar Winery
Hawke’s Bay
Now in his 80s, Sir George Fistonich (pictured above, centre) may well be the oldest person in Aotearoa to launch a completely new wine venture. After losing his family business, Villa Maria, he founded Fistonich Family Wines, and last year started releasing wines under labels such as the classic Čuvar Winery, and the exploratory Obliix brand. He’s got the team back together, with ex-Villa people in key roles.
Peter Lorimer and Clive Dougall of Deep Down Wines.
Peter Lorimer and Clive Dougall of Deep Down Wines.
21
DEEP DOWN
Marlborough
Deep Down’s goal is to craft honest wines that reflect place. To achieve this, their highly drinkable small-batch wines are organic, harness only native yeasts, and contain little or no additions. Last year this ethos extended to the winery becoming a B Corp Certified business, “to put people and the planet over profit”.
22
DOG POINT VINEYARD
Marlborough
At Dog Point, the new generation has been successfully building on the legacy left by founders Ivan and Margaret Sutherland and James and Wendy Healy. With a focus on wines with the potential to age, they have built up a cellar of bottles they are now releasing 10 years later through The Library wine club.
23
EATON WINES
Marlborough
The sauvignons of pioneering viticulturalist Mike Eaton are proof that great sites and sensitive winemaking can result in examples that blossom with age. Assisted by his son Harrison – who also makes his own eclectic Melange wines – Mike is now releasing all his expressive single vineyard sauvignons with up to two years bottle age.
24
ELEPHANT HILL
Hawke’s Bay
The provenance of Elephant Hill’s expressive single site wines has been made even clearer with the adoption of the label Sea for wines made from its coastal sites, Earth for those grown in Bridge Pa, and Stone from the Gimblett Gravels. Its chardonnay programme has been expanded with the appointment of ex-Vidal winemaker Hugh Crichton.
25
ESSES
Marlborough
Esses focuses on crafting tiny qualities of serious aged methode traditionelle sparkling wines. What these grower-producer wines may lack in volumes, they make up for in breadth of styles, which currently span a rich decade-old vintage wine, to fresh non-vintages, with an oak-matured pinot rose in process.
26
FRAMINGHAM
Marlborough
Riesling remains one of Framingham’s great strengths, flying the flag for this underrated variety in Aotearoa. Possessing some of the country’s oldest riesling vines, it currently makes six delicious expressions from its organically certified vineyards. However, you will not be disappointed by its array of other wines.
27
FROMM
Marlborough
This is the first year at Fromm with Daniel Ah-Loy as head winemaker after the retirement of the winery’s original winemaker Hätsch Kalberer last year. Daniel worked with Hätsch from 2018, joining “because I loved the wines, so there will be no dramatic changes”, he says.
Greystone's Dom Maxwell.
Greystone's Dom Maxwell.
28
GREYSTONE VINEYARD
North Canterbury
Greystone is already an innovative producer of sustainable site-expressive wines but is taking this a step further through its development of the “High Wire” system. As part of its regenerative viticulture practices, this sees vines trained at elevations that allow year-round sheep grazing beneath them to enhance soil health, increase biodiversity and reduce its carbon footprint.
Therese and Hans Herzog.
Therese and Hans Herzog.
29
HANS HERZOG
Marlborough
★ LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
In 1994, Hans and Therese Herzog left their Swiss wine estate with a vision to craft exceptional wines in the uncharted terrain of Marlborough. Since then, the Herzogs have been making highly expressive examples from the diverse range of grape varieties they’ve planted on their warmer Marlborough site. To celebrate its 30th anniversary, Hans Herzog has released a special edition of its flagship wine, the rich and structured Hans Herzog Spirit of Marlborough 2017.
30
HALCYON DAYS
Hawke’s Bay
★ BEST FOR NATURAL WINE
This year, Halcyon Days’ eclectic range of organic, additive-free wines have really impressed. Spanning a chillable sangiovese to a sensational chenin blanc pet-nat, it’s their freshness, fruit purity and often remarkably low alcohol levels that get me salivating. “We pick when the grapes are ripe, and still have good levels of fresh natural acidity,” says Halycon Days’ Amy and Olly Hopkinson-Styles (pictured), “and work with lees and skins to accentuate the body and structure where others might leave the fruit on the vine for another week or two.”
31
HUNTRESS
Wairarapa
The Huntress is Urlar winemaker Jannine Rickards (pictured), who through her own label is making engaging and food-friendly wines that reflect their place, season, and some of Jannine’s wild spirit. Launched in 2018 initially using just Wairarapa grapes, Huntress’ commitment to organic grapes production has seen Jannine make three wines from Hawke’s Bay this year.
32
KENZIE
Hawke’s Bay
At last year’s Chardonnay Symposium the Salo Chardonnay made by legendary Aussie winemaker Steve Flamsteed and Kiwi Dave McIntosh was one of my favourite wines. Now back home in Hawke’s Bay, Dave is making some brilliant boundary-pushing minimal intervention wines under his own Kenzie label, adding an albariño and gamay this year.
33
KUMEU RIVER
Kumeū, Auckland
There’s plenty to celebrate at Kumeū River this year as the family-run winery marks its 80th anniversary, while its winemaker Michael Brajkovich was voted 2024 Winemakers’ Winemaker by the Institute of Masters of Wine. Michael was the first in New Zealand to achieve the hard-won Masters of Wine qualification, pioneering chardonnay in the country, and still making some of New Zealand’s finest.
34
MAN O’ WAR
Waiheke Island
★ BEST FOR STRUCTURED REDS
Man O’ War is Waiheke’s largest and one of its most consistent wineries, making a range of styles that include some stellar ripe reds. In the hands of winemaker Duncan McTavish, examples such as the Ironclad Bordeaux blend and Dreadnought Syrah combine power with elegance. Man O’ War also recently launched its Swiftsure label from the South Island.
35
THE MARLBORIST
Marlborough
The Marlborist is an exciting recent collaboration between three friends, currently making interesting wines with a light touch. The Marlborist winemaker Richard Ellis was previously with Greywacke, viticulturalist Stuart Dudley at Villa Maria, and brand director David Nash a wine consultant and director of the wine documentary ‘A Seat at the Table’.
36
MAUDE
Central Otago
Maude is a family affair, making beguiling wines from small vineyards across Central Otago, which include its initial Mt Maude Wānaka vineyard planted 30 years ago, to its latest acquisition at Queensberry. Maude recently lost co-founder Terry Wilson, but gained a third generation in his great nephew who now assists Terry’s daughter Sarah-Kate Dineen and husband Dan in Maude’s winemaking.
37
Millton Vineyard
Gisborne
This year sees New Zealand biodynamic pioneer Millton notch up 40 years in business. It’s not only led the organic category, it continues to evolve and build on its past through wines such as the Libiamo range of white wines that have spent time with their skins, and its revival of the delicious demi-sec style of chenin from the 80s.
38
MOUNT EDWARD
Central Otago
Mount Edward’s eclectic and expansive wine range continues to enthral. Its spectrum of risk taking but sensitively made organic and low intervention wines span its classic single vineyard Muirkirk Pinot Noir to the deliberately oxidised and deliciously umami-rich O2 Chenin Blanc and even a very smart Vermouth.
39
NO 1 FAMILY ESTATE
Marlborough
★ BEST FOR BUBBLES
A family that’s made Champagne since the 1700s, with 40 years making solely methode traditionelle in Marlborough, No 1 Family Estate is top of the pops again when it comes to bubbles. Every single wine in their range is a pinnacle of effervescent excellence: from its entry level Assemble, to Reserves that give many Champagnes a run for their money.
40
O Naturel
Central Otago
Lucie and Brook Lawrence (pictured) make organic wines that are deliciously easy to drink while possessing layers of interest and complexity. Another thrilling aspect of O Naturel is the fact that their daughters Mathilde, aged 19, and Madeleine, aged 17, have started making their own wine for the label, which offers an exciting taste of the future.
41
PEGASUS BAY/MAIN DIVIDE
North Canterbury
★ BEST FOR THE BUDGET CONSCIOUS
Main Divide was originally established as a label for wine that didn’t make the cut for the Donaldson family’s main Pegasus Bay releases. However, 15 years ago they decided to lift the quality and make Main Divide a premium brand in its own right, working with Waipara growers and planting a dedicated Main Divide Vineyard. This focus has resulted in the best value wines in the land that stand up in blind tastings to wines over twice their price.
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Pyramid Valley
North Canterbury/Central Otago
While Pyramid Valley’s production was once entirely focused on its Waikari estate in North Canterbury it now makes elegant and distinctive wines from other South Island vineyards. Last year it added a Central Otago pinot noir to its top Botanical Collection from the well-established Manata vineyard in Lowburn, purchased in 2018.
43
QUARTZ REEF
Bendigo, Central Otago
Under the experienced guidance of winemaker Rudi Bauer (pictured), Quartz Reef’s wines continue to go from strength to strength. The Bendigo subregional pioneer who makes biodynamically certified wines from his estate with its quartz soil specialises in pure complex sparkling wines and pinot noir as well as great examples from other varieties.
44
SAM HARROP WINES
Waiheke Island
From his Waiheke Island base, Master of Wine and wine consultant Sam Harrop makes tiny quantities of nine single vineyard wines from the Island and Hawke’s Bay. “It’s a canvas for me to experiment, learn and please consumers,” says Sam of his label, whose wines are released and made to be drunk with some age.
45
SORRELL WINES
Marlborough
Sorrel is the serious side hustle of Cloudy Bay winemaker Daniel Sorrel. From 2021, Daniel has been sourcing grapes from a selection of top organic Marlborough vineyards such as Churton, Wrekin and Auntsfield and is making some lovely fresh, pure and understated wines. “It’s a labour of love, but also a celebration of everything I enjoy about winemaking,” he says.
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SWIFT
Hawke’s Bay
After leaving Ash Ridge and her legacy of its conversion to organics, Lauren Swift is now focusing full time on her own brand, Swift. In partnership with her vineyard contractor husband Henry, Swift’s wines are bright, fresh and mindfully made, showcasing single grape varieties and single sites.
Te Whare Ra's Jason and Anna Flowerday.
Te Whare Ra's Jason and Anna Flowerday.
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TE WHARE RA
Marlborough
Based on a historic Marlborough vineyard site, Te Whare Ra has been making some of the country’s top aromatic whites for years. Now its pinot noirs are truly ascendent, making excellent examples that includes its main release from a selection of organic blocks; its single vineyard (SV) home block expression, and one from the legendary Clayvin Vineyard.
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TONY BISH WINES
Hawke’s Bay
For chardonnay specialist Tony Bish (pictured, above centre) “it’s all about the vessel”. As well as using traditional barrels, he uses an expanding array of egg-shaped fermenters, made from wood to concrete, used to impart fantastic texture to his wines without overt oak. After a tough 2023 vintage with the cyclone, he’s excited about 2024.
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Trinity Hill
Hawke’s Bay
One of the flagship wineries of the warmer Giblett Gravels subregion, Trinity Hill make an impressive array of wines, which regularly combine bright fruit with depth. Making consistently strong chardonnay, syrah and Bordeaux red varieties, it also makes some great versions of wines from lesser-known grapes, such as Spanish native, tempranillo.
50
VALLI VINEYARD
North & Central Otago
Valli celebrates its 25th anniversary of making beautiful wine in both Central and North Otago. Founder Grant Taylor literally returned to his Waitaki Valley roots when late last year he opened a cellar door and wine bar in Kurow, while winemaker Jen Parr leads the winemaking team down in Central.
Wine editor and judge / Dr Jo Burzynska
Producer / Johanna Thornton
Digital designer / Laura Hutchins
Winery imagery / Supplied
Jo's portrait and bottle photographer / Babiche Martens
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