It’s a celebration of excellent wine in Viva’s inaugural New Zealand Wine Awards for 2023. Wine editor Dr Jo Burzynska selects the country’s 50 most thrilling wineries, awarding a supreme winner, a top 10 and choosing 50 exemplary wines to drink now
Dr Jo Burzynska
Who is making the most exciting wines in Aotearoa? That’s the question that informed the formidable task of selecting just 50 wineries that I consider represent the cream of the crop.
With a record-breaking 744 wineries in New Zealand, there are now hundreds of companies producing decent bottles. But this is not what these awards are about. My criteria when choosing the country’s top wineries, was those that consistently make not just good but excellent wines across the board, that offer real interest, and are a pleasure to drink. These are wineries from which you can pick any wine, confident that it will deliver something special.
Some of these top 50 wineries are classic names many will have heard of. These are dynamic enterprises that continue to evolve in terms of quality and interest. Others are more recently established, which I’m confident you’ll be hearing more about. These new wineries must have released several vintages to appear on this list, to ensure their wines are consistently impressive.
It was a tough job reaching this final 50 as New Zealand’s wine scene has never been so thrilling. There’s been a proliferation in recent years of winemakers starting up their own labels, after — or even while still — working for larger companies. Rather than the many ventures started by romantic novices or investors from outside wine that we’ve seen in the past, this latest wave of wineries is grounded in skill and vision that’s resulting in genuinely compelling wines.
These awards celebrate the achievements of wineries in an era when the best create wines that express the unique places in which they’re grown. Many on this list work organically, as synthetic chemicals can disrupt and destroy the natural character of a vineyard. All have a sensitive touch in the winery, and many also embrace minimal intervention winemaking that best preserves the distinctive character of well-grown grapes.
For each winery, I recommend a wine that’s a delicious example of its ethos. There are also special category awards for producers who excel in specific areas.
WATCH JO SAMPLE THE WINNING WINES
CHURTON
Marlborough
★ SUPREME WINNER
A winning blend of tradition and innovation, grounded in exceptional grapes, puts Churton in pole position. Churton epitomises what’s so compelling in New Zealand wine at present through its ecological approach, vineyard focus and pristine expressive wines.
Founders Sam and Mandy Weaver established Churton’s vineyard deep in the hills of Marlborough’s Waihopai Valley 30 years ago. Farming organically and biodynamically long before this became fashionable, the result has been biodiversity, and quality. Churton’s fruit can now also be found in great wines made by other wineries in this top 50; testament to its special site and the care taken by the Weavers in tending it.
Longtime winemaker Sam’s serious attention to sauvignon blanc has seen Churton consistently make some of the country’s most compelling examples, combining Marlborough’s characteristic vibrancy with a subtlety that invites another glass. Its elegant pinot noirs have also gone from strength to strength as vines age. Churton makes an impressive rare Marlborough viognier, as well as being one of the very few to plant Petit Manseng, which it makes into a rich and fresh dessert wine.
It’s a dynamic time for the estate, as Sam and Mandy gradually pass the reins to their sons Ben and Jack who’ve returned from time working for wineries overseas. The sons are solely behind Churton’s Natural State range. Through these pure-fruited natural wines, the brothers have been “challenging the past and experimenting with traditions”, from making eclectic field blends to fermenting wines using yeasts gathered from the vineyard. These wines are evidence that Churton is in safe hands, building on solid past success, while looking forward to a bright future.
Try: Churton Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $27
Other Marlborough sauvignons may shout, but Churton’s silky textured and elegant example clearly and calmly conveys its sense of place. Waves of ripe stonefruit, tangy lime, and gentle savoury herbal character radiate from its bright mineral core.
Churtonwines.co.nz
Presented in alphabetical order.
Top 10
ATA RANGI
Martinborough
ATA RANGI
As one of Martinborough’s wine pioneers and New Zealand pinot noir trailblazers, Ata Rangi earned its name as one of the country’s iconic wineries. Still owned by the founding Paton family, with winemaking in the very capable hands of Helen Masters, its future looks as brilliant as its illustrious past.
A recent vertical tasting of vintages from Ata Rangi’s flagship pinot noir back to 1994 reinforced the magnitude of Ata Rangi’s ongoing achievement. Many older wines remained vibrant, while Helen’s light touch ensures the magic continues. New wines have entered the fold, most notably pinots from the Kotinga, McCrone and Helen’s own Masters Vineyards, adding breadth to the depth of Ata Rangi’s exquisite line-up.
Try: Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Noir 2020, $90
Made from the oldest pinot noir in Ata Rangi’s organic home vineyards, this pinot is pretty and perfumed with an underlying intensity. Pure cherry fruit is infused with fragrant notes of cinnamon spice, violet florals, and subtle savoury nuances, framed by fine tannins and fresh acid.
Atarangi.co.nz
Top 10
BELL HILL
Weka Pass, North Canterbury
BELL HILL
When Marcel Giesen and Sherwyn Veldhuizen planted vines in 1997 on the site of an old lime quarry in Waikari, as the first vineyard in the area they weren’t sure if they’d be able to ripen grapes for still wine. Their pioneering spirit paid off and they’re now producing tiny quantities of breathtaking organic/biodynamic chardonnay and pinot noir that transmit the energy of their rare active limestone soils.
Recent years have seen Bell Hill start making striking single parcel wines, and reactivate its sparkling wine programme. It’s also making pinot noir and chardonnay in other regions, venturing outside their own vineyard that will never be much more than the 3.2 hectares currently planted.
Try: Bell Hill Chardonnay 2019, $160
An exceptional and intense chardonnay propelled by its site’s chalky acidity and saline minerality, in which essence of grapefruit and mandarin are scented with orange blossom, over a subtle savoury and toasted oatmeal undercurrent.
Bellhill.co.nz
Top 10
BILANCIA
Hawke’s Bay
BILANCIA
Libran winemakers Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson named their joint winemaking venture Bilancia after the Italian for their shared star sign. Also meaning balance, this is certainly something their fascinating wines have achieved since their first release in 1997.
Bilancia makes one of New Zealand’s standout syrahs from their precipitous La Collina vineyard, from which the wine takes its name. The slope is also the source of their more recent intriguing Uvaggio Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne Field Blend and impressive Tiratore Chardonnay. In recent years, Bilancia has started make interesting wines from grapes sourced beyond La Collina that highlight unique small vineyards in Hawke’s Bay.
Try: Bilancia La Collina Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021, $160
Made from syrah with an aromatic touch of the white grape viognier, the La Collina layers dense but lifted and fresh black plum and raspberry compote fruit with fragrant notes of pepper, clove, dried herb, earth and florals.
Bilancia.co.nz
Top 10
FELTON ROAD
Bannockburn, Central Otago
FELTON ROAD
No road has quite put New Zealand on the world’s fine wine map like Felton. With 27 impressive vintages in the cellar and its oldest vines now 31, this may be a short journey in international terms, but it’s become a New Zealand institution for good reason.
Now making wines from four great biodynamically managed organic vineyards in Bannockburn, Felton Road’s focus has been attention to quality and detail, rather than expansion. With every vintage under the sensitive guidance of winemaker Blair Walter, it continues to produce some of the country’s most captivating pinot noirs, as well as great riesling and chardonnay.
Try: Felton Road Bannockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2021, $80
A blend of all four vineyards, the Bannockburn is a beautifully pure pinot with taut cherry fruit laced with baking spice and mineral, a subtle savoury umami character, and fine tannins.
Feltonroad.com
Top 10
FROMM
Marlborough
FROMM
★ LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Pioneering red varieties in Marlborough, low alcohol riesling in New Zealand, and championing single vineyard wines, Fromm has quietly been at the vanguard of wine in New Zealand for over 30 years. Throughout this time, Hatsch Kalberer has been at its winemaking helm. Retiring this year, Hatsch is honoured in these awards for the major contribution he’s made at Fromm to Aotearoa wine culture.
At Fromm, Hatsch never made showy wines to win awards. Rather, his wines aim to give pleasure, often taking time in the glass or cellar to reveal their enthralling complexity. Describing himself as a traditionalist, he’s nevertheless played a crucial role in guiding the organic winery into new territory, most recently through the low intervention, pinot and syrah naturel. He hands over to Fromm’s accomplished assistant winemaker, Daniel Ah-Loy.
Try: Fromm Fromm Vineyard Marlborough Syrah 2019, $85
Classic cool-climate syrah, in which fresh black plum fruit combines with a savoury dimension and perfumed with intense notes of black pepper, cardamom and rose. Drinking beautifully now, but like all Fromm’s single vineyard wines, should age spectacularly.
Frommwinery.co.nz
Top 10
MOUNT EDWARD
Central Otago
MOUNT EDWARD
★ BEST FOR THE ADVENTUROUS
Maverick spirit mingles with classic styles at Mount Edward, one of the country’s most successfully avant-garde wineries. Making pure single vineyard expressions of pinot noir and riesling from its organically certified vineyards around Central Otago, it also walks on the wild side.
Under the skilled guidance of winemaker-manager Duncan Forsyth, its more experimental bottlings are fascinating, fun and deliciously drinkable. These include one of the best early skin contact whites, the Mount Edward “Clockwork” orange, complete with a back label in the Clockwork Orange film’s slang, nadsat. It also made its Pitch Noir to accompany an album made by electronic duo, Pitch Black. And its most recent release is the fantastic deliberately oxidised O2 chenin blanc.
Try: Mount Edward O2 Central Otago Chenin 2019, $48
Dry, rich and sherry-like with notes of walnut and tobacco, nutmeg and clove, candied peel and savoury, underpinned by a fabulously fresh, tangy character. Drink with aromatic duck soup and have your mind blown!
Mountedward.com
Top 10
NEUDORF
Nelson
NEUDORF
Veteran Nelson winery Neudorf continues to evolve in exciting directions. Its Home Block Moutere Chardonnay is now over four decades old, and remains one of New Zealand’s greatest chardonnays, while like all Neudorf’s single vineyard wines, is now certified organic.
Chardonnay remains one of Neudorf’s many strong suits, which encompasses a range of interesting examples such as the Rosie’s Block Moutere Chardonnay and Rosie’s Block Amphora Chardonnay. Another great recent addition has been Albarino, with Neudorf’s talented winemaker Todd Stevens making one of the country’s finest in Neudorf’s newly solar-powered winery.
Try: Neudorf Rosie’s Block Moutere Nelson Chardonnay 2022, $50
Elegant and creamy, the attractive mandarin fruit of this contemporary chardonnay is lightly infused with subtle toasty notes and a hint of gingerbread-like spice. There’s a touch of savoury richness, and a lovely crisp lift of lemon and mineral.
Neudorf.co.nz
Top 10
PEGASUS BAY
North Canterbury
PEGASUS BAY
From world-class riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir, to great value wines released under their Main Divide label, Pegasus Bay’s Donaldson family does everything so well. From their Waipara Valley base, the Canterbury pioneers continue to excel and innovate.
Pegasus Bay’s rieslings remain New Zealand benchmarks. In recent years it has worked with new standalone varieties, such as Muscat and Cabernet Franc. Making long-lived wines across the board, these can be enjoyed through Pegasus Bay’s regular library releases. It now also uses its Vergence range as a site for experimentation, with recent examples being non-traditional blends that include a pinot noir with a surprising dash of cabernet sauvignon.
Try: Pegasus Bay Waipara Valley Riesling 2020, $30
Concentration and elegance combine in this beautifully balanced off-dry riesling. Mandarin, apricot and apple fruit are supported by a vibrant flinty grapefruit drive leading to a fresh dry finish.
Pegasusbay.com
Top 10
RIPPON
Wānaka,
Central Otago
RIPPON
Place is everything, for the third-generation farmers at Rippon. On the country’s largest block of schist, Nick Mills took over the winegrowing at his family estate after learning the value of the land from time spent making wine in Burgundy. One of his first moves was to convert the vineyard to biodynamics.
With vines that date back to the 80s, Rippon’s graceful and long-lived wines are grounded in vine age and a sensitive approach in the vineyard and winery. Younger vines make the lively Jeunesse wines, the Mature Vine releases are at its heart, while special parcels go into the limited-release “climat” wines. In recent years Rippon also started making the Wānaka Villages, an early-release pinot that’s seen no oak.
Try: Rippon Mature Vine Wanaka Central Otago Pinot Noir 2019, $72
Beautifully pure and delicate red cherry and berry fruit are layered with notes of fennel and mineral in a youthful wine with the fresh drive and firm texture to age superbly.
Rippon.co.nz
Presented in no particular order.
11
ASTROLABE
Marlborough
Astrolabe initially turned heads with the bright flavours of its award-winning sauvignon blanc. A family-run winery headed by veteran winemaker Simon Waghorn, his passion for chenin blanc has also resulted in some of the country’s finest examples of this white Loire variety.
Try: Astrolabe Wrekin Vineyard Marlborough Chenin Blanc 2021, $32
Try: Astrolabe Wrekin Vineyard Marlborough Chenin Blanc 2021, $32
12
BLACK ESTATE
North Canterbury
Black Estate’s characterful wines are the fruits of its sensitive approach to organic/biodynamic winegrowing, combined with thoughtful experimentation. It makes fine single vineyard pinot noirs, chardonnays and riesling, as well as exemplary cabernet franc and chenin blanc.
Try: Black Estate Home Vineyard North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2021, $45
Try: Black Estate Home Vineyard North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2021, $45
13
BLANK CANVAS
Marlborough
Marlborough power couple Sophie Parker-Thomson — New Zealand’s latest Master of Wine — and her internationally high-flying winemaker-husband Matt Thomson are the forces behind Blank Canvas. They’re making artful wines from this relatively new project.
Try: Blank Canvas “Abstract” Three Rows Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019, $40
Try: Blank Canvas “Abstract” Three Rows Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019, $40
14
BURN COTTAGE
Central Otago
Burn Cottage is one of the few local wineries to be biodynamic and organic from inception. Now on the 12th release of the pinot noir that’s its main focus, these are deeply impressive when young and are ageing marvellously.
Try: Burn Cottage Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2020, $75
Try: Burn Cottage Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2020, $75
15
CAMBRIDGE ROAD
Martinborough
Before anyone in Aotearoa dared blend pinot noir with syrah, Lance Redgwell was pushing back winemaking boundaries from his organic vineyard in classic Martinborough territory. His exploratory approach has led to intriguing, eclectic and highly enjoyable wines from his own vineyard and beyond.
Try: Cambridge Road Stargazer Cirrus Vineyard Martinborough Pinot Noir 2022, $40
Try: Cambridge Road Stargazer Cirrus Vineyard Martinborough Pinot Noir 2022, $40
16
CHURCH ROAD
Hawke's Bay
Celebrating its 125th anniversary last year, Church Road is one of New Zealand’s oldest wineries. Owned by the large multinational Pernod Ricard it nevertheless retains a boutique feel through winemaker Chris Scott’s excellent small-batch releases, such as its flagship Tom wines and single vineyard CR1 range.
Try: Blank Canvas “Abstract” Three Rows Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019, $120
Try: Blank Canvas “Abstract” Three Rows Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019, $120
17
CLOS HENRI
Marlborough
Marlborough grapes and French know-how are a winning combination at Clos Henri. At this organic Marlborough outpost of famed French sauvignon producer Sancerre’s Henri Bourgeois its estate-grown pinot noir and sauvignon blanc continue to beguile.
Try: Clos Henri Otira Glacial Stones Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $36
Try: Clos Henri Otira Glacial Stones Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $36
18
CLOUDY BAY
Marlborough
Maker of one of the most iconic sauvignons, Cloudy Bay continues to deliver some of Marlborough’s most stylish expressions. After expanding into Central Otago through the purchase of two vineyards, it now makes seriously good pinot noir down south.
Try: Cloudy Bay Te Wahi Central Otago Pinot Noir 2018, $130
Try: Cloudy Bay Te Wahi Central Otago Pinot Noir 2018, $130
19
AMOISE
Hawke’s Bay
★ BEST FOR NATURAL WINES
Purity is to the fore at Amoise, both in flavours and philosophy. After working in wine around the world, Amy Farnsworth settled in Hawke’s Bay, where she makes her fresh and expressive Amoise wines using organically farmed grapes and zero additives.
Try: Amoise Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Franc 2022, $40
Amoisewines.co.nz
20
ESK VALLEY
Hawke’s Bay
★ BEST FOR THE BUDGET-CONSCIOUS
While Esk Valley’s top wine sells for a three-figure sum, backed by a large parent company, the winery also makes some of the most interesting great value wines in the country. Its Artisanal Collection, in particular, offers intriguing well-made wines that include unusual varieties that largely retail for around $25.
Try: Esk Valley Artisanal Collection Hawke’s Bay Grenache 2021, $35
Eskvalleywines.com
21
CRAGGY RANGE
Hawke’s Bay/Martinborough
After launching polished releases from their vineyards in Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough, Craggy Range’s wines have deepened in personality in recent years. Nowhere is this more evident than in the multiple flagship wines of its stunning prestige collection.
Try: Craggy Range Les Beaux Cailloux Gimbeltt Gravels Hawke’s Bay 2021, $150
Try: Craggy Range Les Beaux Cailloux Gimbeltt Gravels Hawke’s Bay 2021, $150
22
DEEP DOWN
Marlborough
Ex-Seresin winemaker Clive Dougall has continued to make engaging organic wines in his latest collaborative project, Deep Down. He currently works with some of Marlborough’s best organic growers for the grapes that go into his low-intervention wines.
Try: Deep Down Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $25
Try: Deep Down Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $25
23
DESTINY BAY
Waiheke Island
Destiny Bay only makes cabernet blends from its small amphitheatre-like vineyard. Its attention to detail results in some truly world class examples, with a commitment to quality that means in a challenging vintage like 2023, no wines are made at all.
Try: Destiny Bay Magna Praemia Waiheke Island 2020, $650
Try: Destiny Bay Magna Praemia Waiheke Island 2020, $650
24
DOG POINT VINEYARD
Marlborough
There’s been a changing of the guard at Dog Point, as the children of its co-founder Ivan Sutherland take over operations. Dog Point owns New Zealand’s largest Biogro certified organic vineyard, from where it make wines like its ultra-vibrant Section 94 Sauvignon Blanc.
Try: Dog Point Point Vineyard Section 94 Marlborough 2017, $45
Try: Dog Point Point Vineyard Section 94 Marlborough 2017, $45
25
COLERE
Marlborough
Micro-negociant Julian Richards sources the grapes for his wines from some of the most interesting certified organic/biodynamic vineyards in Marlborough and Nelson. Made with a light touch, the wines authentically reflect these special sites.
Try: Colere The Wrekin Vineyard Marlborugh Chenin Blanc 2021, $55
Colere.co.nz
26
EATON WINES
Marlborough
Visionary viticulturalist Mike Eaton helped pioneer hillside planting in Marlborough when most vines were on the flats. He now makes fascinating small-batch releases from some of the interesting vineyards for which he consults. His son Harrison’s fun Melange lo-fi wines are also worth checking out.
Try: Eaton Thistle Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2021, $48
Eatonwines.nz
27
FRAMINGHAM
Marlborough
If you’ve written off riesling, I implore you try one of the fabulous examples made by Framingham. With the country’s widest range of this underrated variety and some of our finest examples, Framingham offers proof that there is a riesling for everyone.
Try: Framingham Select Marlborough Riesling 2022, $40
Framingham.co.nz
28
ESSES
Marlborough
One of the country’s few sparkling specialists, Esses burst onto the wine scene with its first release in 2015. It makes stylish aged Methode Traditionnelle wines from its vineyard that’s the only one in the Kaikōura township (that’s included in the Marlborough winegrowing region).
Try: Esses Methode Traditionnelle Kaikōura Millesime 2016, $75
Try: Esses Methode Traditionnelle Kaikōura Millesime 2016, $75
29
GREYSTONE
North Canterbury
It’s said that great wine is made in the vineyard, and this is literally the case for organic winery Greystone. In collaboration with wine academics, its Vineyard Fermented Pinot captures all the life of its site, while the wines it makes inside are also revelatory.
Try: Greystone Vineyard Ferment North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2020, $90
Try: Greystone Vineyard Ferment North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2020, $90
30
HANZ HERZOG
Marlborough
From Arneis to Zwiegelt, Hans Herzog continues to amaze with his growing array of alternative varieties, as well as classic styles. Often the first taste of these grapes grown on New Zealand soil, Hans’ winemaking skill and meticulously tended organic fruit, shows them in their best local light.
Try: Hans Herzog Marlborough Blaufrankisch 2019, $89
Try: Hans Herzog Marlborough Blaufrankisch 2019, $89
31
GREYWACKE
Marlborough
★ BEST FOR SAUVIGNON
Greywacke was started by Cloudy Bay founding winemaker Kevin Judd after leaving the iconic winery. The pure, aromatic and elegant minimal intervention wines he now makes, assisted by Richelle Tyney, are exemplary of the best of contemporary Marlborough.
Try: Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Marlborough 2021, $40
Greywacke.com
32
NO. 1 FAMILY ESTATE
Marlborough
★ BEST FOR BUBBLES
A sparkling wine specialist with its roots in Champagne and its grapes grown on its estate in Marlborough. Winemaker Daniel Le Brun draws on 12 generations of experience in Champagne to craft some of the most elegant bubbles in Aotearoa.
Try: No 1 Family Estate Reserve Blanc de Blancs Marlborough NV, $96
No1familyestate.co.nz
33
HALCYON DAYS
Hawke’s Bay
At Halcyon Days, Amy and Olly Hopkinson-Styles make interesting varieties and blends, with refreshingly low alcohol levels, from organic vineyards, with no additives. These are pure and delicious wines you just want to keep drinking.
Try: Halcyon Days Mangatahi Osawa Vineyard Hawkes Bay 2022, $38
Try: Halcyon Days Mangatahi Osawa Vineyard Hawkes Bay 2022, $38
34
HUNTRESS WINES
Wairarapa
Hunter and rising star winemaker at Urlar, Jannine Rickards (Ngā Puhi, Ngāi Te Rangi), also makes great wines under her own Huntress label. Honouring indigenous cultural food growing practices, she works with growers who care for the land through sustainable and organic practices.
Try: Huntress Waikoa Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $36
Try: Huntress Waikoa Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $36
35
JOHANNESHOF
Marlborough
If you’ve wondered what great gewurztraminer tastes like, look no further than Johanneshof. This long established winery that manages its vineyards regeneratively also make wonderfully complex sparkling wines that age in New Zealand’s first underground rock cellar.
Try: Johanneshof Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2022, $36
Try: Johanneshof Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2022, $36
36
KUMEU RIVER
Kumeu, Auckland
Master of Wine Michael Brajkovich makes world class chardonnays in the unlikely location of Kumeū. These still awe and have been joined by a notable new stablemate from the limestone-rich Rays Road vineyard it purchased in Hawke’s Bay, as well as its superb trio of sparkling wines.
Try: Kumeu River Rays Road Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022, $40
Try: Kumeu River Rays Road Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022, $40
37
GREENHOUGH
Nelson
Greenhough was one of the pioneers in the Nelson region in the mid-70s. Today its combination of mature vines, an organic approach and gentle minimal intervention winemaking have ensured its wines remain some of the region’s most pleasurable.
Try: Greenhough Road Block Nelson Chardonnay 2021, $28
Greenhough.co.nz
38
MAHI
Marlborough
Elegant, articulate and organic, what more could one ask for in wine? And Mahi always delivers, often with added wow-factor, and wines that develop with real interest in the cellar. Mahi tika ana!
Try: Mahi Twin Valleys Marlborough Pinot Noir 2019, $37
Mahiwine.co.nz
39
MILLTON VINEYARD
Gisborne
Millton not only remain relevant for embracing biodynamics in New Zealand years before anyone else, but for continuing to develop. Now with the next generation on board, classics such as Clos de Ste Anne rub shoulders with the delicious minimal intervention Libiamo wines.
Try: Millton Clos de Ste Anne La Bas Vineyard Gisborne Chenin Blanc 2021, $90
Try: Millton Clos de Ste Anne La Bas Vineyard Gisborne Chenin Blanc 2021, $90
40
O NATUREL
Central Otago
While O Naturel only released its first vintage last year, it makes the list given it’s grounded in the two decades’ experience of its makers, Lucie and Brook Lawrence at Aurum. Made from their own vineyard using a natural approach, the wines are vivid, unadulterated joy in a bottle.
Try: O Naturel Organic Dry Central Otago Riesling 2022, $28
Try: O Naturel Organic Dry Central Otago Riesling 2022, $28
41
PYRAMID VALLEY
North Canterbury
At Pyramid Valley’s heart is its unique Waikari vineyard, which produces wines that taste like they could not be made anywhere else. Quantities of these are tiny, but it’s expanded its ranges sourced from other vineyards in Canterbury and beyond that offer plenty of interest.
Try: Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2020, $50
Try: Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2020, $50
42
SATO
Central Otago
Yoshiaki and Kyoko Sato moved to New Zealand to make minimal intervention wine. Initially crafting exquisite examples from purchased organic grapes, they have just started to release remarkable wines from their own vineyard, “La Ferme de Sato”.
Try: Sato Le Ferme de Sato Sous Bois Central Otago Cabernet Franc 2020, $80
Try: Sato Le Ferme de Sato Sous Bois Central Otago Cabernet Franc 2020, $80
43
QUARTZ REEF
Bendigo, Central Otago
★ BEST FOR PINOT
Quartz Reef’s Rudi Bauer has been tapping into the full potential of his quartz-dominant Central Otago terroir. Not only does he make a growing range of singular pinot noirs, but his sparkling wines also excel, he crafts a serious pinot gris, and perhaps unsurprising given his Austrian roots, a great gruner veltliner.
Try: Quartz Reef Single Ferment Central Otago Pinot Noir 2020, $90
Quartzreef.co.nz
44
TE MATA
Hawke’s Bay
★ BEST FOR STRUCTURED REDS
Te Mata may have been making wine since 1896, but its ethos of continued improvement means it’s still a force behind some of the country’s greatest long-lived reds, such as its Coleraine. A new red wine cuverie and move towards organics sees it enter a new era of quality.
Try: Te Mata Awatea Hawke’s Bay 2021, $45
Temata.co.nz
45
SMITH & SHETH
Hawke’s Bay
After helping establish Craggy Range, Master of Wine Steve Smith teamed up with American billionaire investor Brian Sheth. Aiming to make outstanding wines from selected vineyards predominantly in Hawke’s Bay, they’ve swiftly established Smith & Sheth as a serious name in New Zealand fine wine.
Try: Smith & Sheth Cru Cantera Omahu Hawke’s Bay 2021, $80
Try: Smith & Sheth Cru Cantera Omahu Hawke’s Bay 2021, $80
46
TE WHARE RA
Marlborough
When Anna and Jason Flowerday bought Te Whare Ra in 2003, they inherited Marlborough’s oldest gewurztraminer vines. Initially known for this and other aromatic varieties, the couple converted the vineyard to organics and have elevated all the estate’s wines to great heights.
Try: Te Whare Ra Toru Marlborough 2022, $32
Try: Te Whare Ra Toru Marlborough 2022, $32
47
TRINITY HILL
Hawke’s Bay
Trinity Hill make a dazzling array of wines, from Hawke’s Bay staples to lesser known varieties, such as Rhone whites to Portugeuse reds. Its quality has been maintained for over a quarter of a century now by skilled winemaker Warren Gibson.
Try: Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021, $40
Try: Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021, $40
48
VALLI
Central Otago/Waitaki Valley
Founded by Central Otago winemaking trailblazer Grant Taylor, Valli makes distinctive pinot noirs from its Gibbston vineyard and other sites around the region. Grant also makes great wines from the limestone rich ultra-cool hillsides of his Waitaki Valley birthplace.
Try: Valli Waitaki Vineyard North Otago Pinot Noir 2021, $85
Try: Valli Waitaki Vineyard North Otago Pinot Noir 2021, $85
49
A THOUSAND GODS
Marlborough
★ BEST NEW WINERY
After starting A Thousand Gods just four years ago, Lauren and Simon Sharp are making some of the most exciting sauvignon blancs in the country. Drawing on their winemaking background in France, and grapes from the Churton vineyard, they guide pristine natural wines in their tiny suburban cellar.
Try: A Thousand Gods Blanc, Marlborough 2021, $38
Athousandgods.com
50
TONY BISH
Hawke’s Bay
★ BEST FOR CHARDONNAY
Following decades at the helm of winemaking at Sacred Hill, chardonnay supremo Tony Bish continues to excel with the variety that’s now the sole focus of his own label. Highlighting the diversity of chardonnay, Tony makes his in traditional barrels to striking egg-shaped fermenters.
Try: Tony Bish Skeetfield Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2021, $85
Tonybishwines.co.nz
Wine editor and judge / Dr Jo Burzynska
Producer / Johanna Thornton
Videographers / Tom Dyton and Sasha Sadlier
Video editor / Susan Bridges
Shorthand designer / Laura Hutchins
Portrait and bottle photographer / Babiche Martens
Special thank you to Daphnes restaurant for the filming location
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