Hiking luxury

Hiking, even in the back of beyond, need not be a total slog, writes Thomas Bywater

Even boys-own adventurer Bear Grylls - eater of snakes, tormentor of TV celebs - admits he has a soft spot for luxury.

"The longer and harder the trip, the sweeter the return to soft beds and hot baths," Forbes quoted the adventurer, in defence of the finer things in life.

Heading into New Zealand's great outdoors doesn't mean forgoing luxury.

There's something about a cooked meal after a long day of hiking that makes it taste that much better - or, a night in an actual bed that makes the return to the trail all the more refreshing and real.

Purists might insist on hiking in with a tent and 25kg pack, and they are welcome to their principals.

You'll be waiting in the chalet with a glass of something cool in hand. Here's how to do it.

32km over three days and two luxury lodges, crossing the Harris saddle from Otago into Fiordland is one of the finest alpine walks in the country.

It's even finer with bed linen and lamb cutlets at the end of each day.

Ultimate Hikes' self-contained lodges provide an ultra-comfortable base of operations. The Lake Mackenzie lodge sits apart from the DoC campsite and in a scrub-and-boulder field. Its scenic lounges and windows let in those big Fiordland skies, and keep out the weather and the sandflies.

For an even more exclusive experience, there are private rooms with Queen mattresses or twin shares - as if you'll have any trouble sleeping after an 11km day.

With cooked suppers and hot breakfasts, this is luxury. There's even generator electricity, until 10pm.

However, the real stars of the show are the guides. As well as keeping walkers on track and in good company, they help bring in supplies and maintain the lodges at a top-notch standard.

New Zealand's highest private mountain hut, at 1750m Whare Kea Chalet is high luxury for hikers and the occasional ski-tourist.

Guests hiking up to the lodge will find hot showers, made beds, a kitchen and even a chef - on request. At this altitude, the experience isn't just luxurious, it's miraculous.
Only accessible by helicopter, or the most determined of mountaineers, it is managed by Aspiring Helicopters. The walking tracks are pretty hardcore too, but guides can find routes to suit all levels.

"There are no marked trails - just natural terrain, so there's a mix of tussock and scree," says Michelle Slater, of Aspiring.

"Guides assess what your ability is for off-trail hiking. From there crossing towards Mt Aspiring or the climb Dragonfly Peak are the most popular day routes."

Scrambling and snow and ice experiences can be arranged or a traverse of the nearby Albert Burn Saddle.

There's no shortage of high-level adventures to work up an appetite for dinner back on the sundeck with eye-level views of Mt Aspiring.

Southeast of Lake Taupō is the domain of the Owhaoko trust. A remote parcel of Ngati Whitikaupeka and Ngati Tuwharetoa land, you'll not find many DoC huts here - even if you wanted to.

The remote Te Whare Ruruhau hut is a beautiful glass-roofed cabin. It's also the only lodge for kilometres. In 7000ha of mountainous terrain, guides can fashion overnight hikes to suit their guests.

The guided day walk through the Ōamaru valley takes in the land and history of the local sub-tribes - who were previously adversaries, now part of the same Owhaoko trust. The rich foraging grounds also hold exceptional trout fishing, the mānuka scrub produces honey.

Accessible by helicopter, guests looking for a challenge can arrange to hike in and chopper out.