Mood of the Nation
Amidst New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria this week, we pause to reflect on what our style means today as fashion director Dan Ahwa takes a medley of local fashion to the home of Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei Marae. A place of historical significance and a cultural hub of creativity and design, here marks a unique display of what New Zealand’s style identity undoubtedly always comes back to — connected to the natural world, thoughtfully produced, and undeniably dignified.
Photographer / Rob Tennent
Fashion director / Dan Ahwa
Design / Laura Hutchins
For a nation synonymous with rugby jerseys, gumboots, black singlets and jandals in summer (and winter), our notoriously low-key approach to dressing is aligned with our fear of being singled out.
This year, along with natural disasters, the rising cost of living and a fraught election campaign, trying to harness any semblance of personal identity through the simple act of getting dressed in the morning now exists at a time of national fatigue. So let’s take pause for a minute and reimagine that it does actually matter how we present ourselves to the world in an age of chaos and uncertainty; a time when artificial intelligence is creeping into the everyday, and an overwhelming stream of trends scrolling past us on social media continues to leave us non-plussed about what to wear right now. This is why creativity and good design matter.
To signal the partnership between New Zealand Fashion Week and Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei — the tangata whenua of central Tāmaki — the iwi has gifted the name “Kahuria” to the event. Kahuria takes inspiration from “Te Kahu Tōpuni o Tuperiri”, a figurative term Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei use to signify their tribal area of interest in central Tāmaki Makaurau. Meaning “dog skin cloak of Tuperiri” who is the revered ancestor of Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei, this iwi narrative also aligns with themes of beauty, innovation, and unity — all things vital to shaping who we are in this very moment in history.
For the following shoot, we took our cues from Fashion Week’s vision to forge a much deeper working partnership with Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei. We wanted to showcase the breadth of our local design talent and document this moment at its marae and the surrounding land of Takaparawhau (Bastion Point).
I wasn’t sure if the iwi would be open to this as it’s quite a radical proposition and the location is layered with so much historical significance, so we discussed creating something timeless that not only spotlights the partnership but also showcases Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei as a home where design and creativity flourish. So much of what the iwi represents is progress without compromising on what’s come before, with respect to the power of art, design and creativity to uplift us all.
GENERATION NEXT
Takaparawhau (Bastion Point) on the southern shore of Auckland’s Waitematā Harbour is a site imbued with deep historical significance. Local models Awa, Arihia, Leonie, Hiwawiki and Sean represent the future here at Takaparawhau where mana Motuhake, history, culture, identity and language are lived and celebrated by the people of Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei.
Clockwise from top left: Arihia wears Shona Tawhiao jumper $259 and earring $173. Kate Sylvester shorts $369. Teva boots $300. Leonie wears Rory William Docherty top $495 and trousers $820. Stevei Houkamau — Taonga o oku tipuna I (Taonga of my ancestors), black clay, paint, waxed cord neckpiece, 2022, and Mandy Flood copper and enamel rings, 2023, $325, all from Masterworks Gallery. Sean wears Manaaki shirt $124. Hiwawiki wears Nicole van Vuuren jacket $760 and trousers $440. Calvin Klein underwear $65.
GENERATION NEXT
Takaparawhau (Bastion Point) on the southern shore of Auckland’s Waitematā Harbour is a site imbued with deep historical significance. Local models Awa, Arihia, Leonie, Hiwawiki and Sean represent the future here at Takaparawhau where mana Motuhake, history, culture, identity and language are lived and celebrated by the people of Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei.
Clockwise from top left: Arihia wears Shona Tawhiao jumper $259 and earring $173. Kate Sylvester shorts $369. Teva boots $300. Leonie wears Rory William Docherty top $495 and trousers $820. Stevei Houkamau — Taonga o oku tipuna I (Taonga of my ancestors), black clay, paint, waxed cord neckpiece, 2022, and Mandy Flood copper and enamel rings, 2023, $325, all from Masterworks Gallery. Sean wears Manaaki shirt $124. Hiwawiki wears Nicole van Vuuren jacket $760 and trousers $440. Calvin Klein underwear $65.
AWA
Kāpiti-raised and Tāmaki Makaurau-based model and actor Te Awarangi (Awa) Te Roera Puna (Ngāti Kahungunu ki Wairoa, Tūhoe) is a director, writer and actor. The Toi Whakaari graduate starred alongside acting legend and previous Viva cover star Rena Owen in the 2022 biopic Whina, based around the legacy of Dame Whina Cooper (ONZ DBE), the respected kuia who worked for many years fighting for the rights of Māori, as well as lending her talent to releasing her own film Tūī in 2021, which she directed, produced and acted in, and won the Emerging Talent Award for, at the 2021 NZ International Film Festival. Here, she takes in the splendour of Takaparawhau (Bastion Point).
Kate Sylvester dress $549. Manaaki cardigan $675. Shona Tawhiao earrings $75.
HIWAWIKI & SEAN
New creative energy in the form of these two complementary denim ensembles — one from emerging design talent Nicole van Vuuren, whose devotion to reducing textile waste through design is a promising example that the future of fashion looks bright. Nicole is one of six designers showing as part of tomorrow’s Viva Next Gen group show at New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria.
Hiwawiki wears Nicole van Vuuren jacket $760 and trousers $440. Dr. Martens loafers $320.
Sean takes on the appeal of a co-ordinated set from designer Kat Tua’s menswear brand Manaaki. We spoke with Kat in March about the inspiration behind her brand, which is sold exclusively internationally on Mrporter.com. From her homebase in Puhinui (Warkworth), the designer is reconnecting with her roots after living overseas. “Creating Manaaki was a process. I never thought I would have a Māori clothing brand because it was never ‘cool’ to wear Māori clothes. One of my brothers even said to me, ‘I don’t want to wear Māori clothes, so I probably won’t wear your brand’ — and he is Māori. I remember thinking, ‘Wow, this is something I really need to keep exploring’. Why are we not proud to wear Māori clothing? These colonial stigmas around Māori products have really affected us.”
Sean wears Manaaki shirt $124 and trousers $139. Blundstone boots $150.
Sean is adorned with a wearable lace work by Rowan Panther, a celebrated lace textile artist who works predominantly in Muka, a raw fibre from the harakeke plant. Rowan’s work explores her Samoan/Irish/English heritage, thus creating her own cultural hybrid in the process. Using craft as a tool to explore wider ideas, the objects are vessels for discussing challenging ideas and thoughts, from culture to identity negotiation. Rowan Panther — Kohumaru Collection: Kauri (2022) muka lace, European beech and stirling silver from Objectspace exhibition Jewellery Triennale, A Stone, an echo, a sign, 2022 (NFS).
LEONIE
Leonie wears Rory William Docherty top $495 and trousers $820. Stevei Houkamau — Taonga o oku tipuna I (Taonga of my ancestors), black clay, paint, waxed cord neckpiece, 2022, and Mandy Flood copper and enamel rings, 2023, $325, all from Masterworks Gallery.
AWA
Kāpiti-raised and Tāmaki Makaurau-based model and actor Te Awarangi (Awa) Te Roera Puna (Ngāti Kahungunu ki Wairoa, Tūhoe) is a director, writer and actor. The Toi Whakaari graduate starred alongside acting legend and previous Viva cover star Rena Owen in the 2022 biopic Whina, based around the legacy of Dame Whina Cooper (ONZ DBE), the respected kuia who worked for many years fighting for the rights of Māori, as well as lending her talent to releasing her own film Tūī in 2021, which she directed, produced and acted in, and won the Emerging Talent Award for, at the 2021 NZ International Film Festival. Here, she takes in the splendour of Takaparawhau (Bastion Point).
Kate Sylvester dress $549. Manaaki cardigan $675. Shona Tawhiao earrings $75.
HIWAWIKI & SEAN
New creative energy in the form of these two complementary denim ensembles — one from emerging design talent Nicole van Vuuren, whose devotion to reducing textile waste through design is a promising example that the future of fashion looks bright. Nicole is one of six designers showing as part of tomorrow’s Viva Next Gen group show at New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria.
Hiwawiki wears Nicole van Vuuren jacket $760 and trousers $440. Dr. Martens loafers $320.
Sean takes on the appeal of a co-ordinated set from designer Kat Tua’s menswear brand Manaaki. We spoke with Kat in March about the inspiration behind her brand, which is sold exclusively internationally on Mrporter.com. From her homebase in Puhinui (Warkworth), the designer is reconnecting with her roots after living overseas. “Creating Manaaki was a process. I never thought I would have a Māori clothing brand because it was never ‘cool’ to wear Māori clothes. One of my brothers even said to me, ‘I don’t want to wear Māori clothes, so I probably won’t wear your brand’ — and he is Māori. I remember thinking, ‘Wow, this is something I really need to keep exploring’. Why are we not proud to wear Māori clothing? These colonial stigmas around Māori products have really affected us.”
Sean wears Manaaki shirt $124 and trousers $139. Blundstone boots $150.
Sean is adorned with a wearable lace work by Rowan Panther, a celebrated lace textile artist who works predominantly in Muka, a raw fibre from the harakeke plant. Rowan’s work explores her Samoan/Irish/English heritage, thus creating her own cultural hybrid in the process. Using craft as a tool to explore wider ideas, the objects are vessels for discussing challenging ideas and thoughts, from culture to identity negotiation. Rowan Panther — Kohumaru Collection: Kauri (2022) muka lace, European beech and stirling silver from Objectspace exhibition Jewellery Triennale, A Stone, an echo, a sign, 2022 (NFS).
LEONIE
Leonie wears Rory William Docherty top $495 and trousers $820. Stevei Houkamau — Taonga o oku tipuna I (Taonga of my ancestors), black clay, paint, waxed cord neckpiece, 2022, and Mandy Flood copper and enamel rings, 2023, $325, all from Masterworks Gallery.
Joe Hawke (standing) reads the Treaty of Waitangi during the Bastion Point protest in May 1977. Photo / NZ Herald archive
KĀKAHU HAU
Central to the work of fashion designer and multifaceted practitioner Dr Bobby Luke (Ngāti Ruanui) is the concept of manaakitanga (caring for, looking after) through his fashion label Campbell Luke. The brand is committed to breathing new life into kākahu (clothes) through a considered vision of elegance and strength — much like the gifted pihepihe, a style of Māori cloak created by Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei weaver Beronia Scott (iwi weaving practitioner) — to NZ Fashion Week. This unique taonga serves as an enduring reminder to the fashion industry to consider how it progresses further with sustainability and ethics at the forefront of its goals.
Looking to the influential women in his family and witnessing the workings of the women of the Pā, Bobby’s strong matriarchal upbringing has helped shape his relationship with design in order to decolonise fashion and, in the process, empower women’s individuality. Here, Arihia wears garments from his collection — layered silhouettes that have become synonymous with Bobby’s ongoing exploration of nostalgia, dignity and whānau values.
Māori excellence is on full display as Arihia is sheltered by the wairua and manaakitanga of Ōrākei Marae — a living breathing part of the Ngāti Whātua people located above Ōkahu Bay on the shores of the Waitematā Harbour. Takaparawhau, where the marae is based, is steeped in rich culture and history, surrounded by spectacular views of the Waitematā Harbour and Te Kahu Tōpuni o Tuperiri.
Arihia wears an ensemble by Campbell Luke (POA) and Shona Tawhiao earrings $173.
KĀKAHU HAU
Central to the work of fashion designer and multifaceted practitioner Dr Bobby Luke (Ngāti Ruanui) is the concept of manaakitanga (caring for, looking after) through his fashion label Campbell Luke. The brand is committed to breathing new life into kākahu (clothes) through a considered vision of elegance and strength — much like the gifted pihepihe, a style of Māori cloak created by Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei weaver Beronia Scott (iwi weaving practitioner) — to NZ Fashion Week. This unique taonga serves as an enduring reminder to the fashion industry to consider how it progresses further with sustainability and ethics at the forefront of its goals.
Looking to the influential women in his family and witnessing the workings of the women of the Pā, Bobby’s strong matriarchal upbringing has helped shape his relationship with design in order to decolonise fashion and, in the process, empower women’s individuality. Here, Arihia wears garments from his collection — layered silhouettes that have become synonymous with Bobby’s ongoing exploration of nostalgia, dignity and whānau values.
Māori excellence is on full display as Arihia is sheltered by the wairua and manaakitanga of Ōrākei Marae — a living breathing part of the Ngāti Whātua people located above Ōkahu Bay on the shores of the Waitematā Harbour. Takaparawhau, where the marae is based, is steeped in rich culture and history, surrounded by spectacular views of the Waitematā Harbour and Te Kahu Tōpuni o Tuperiri.
Arihia wears an ensemble by Campbell Luke (POA) and Shona Tawhiao earrings $173.
REFLECTION PROCESS
Three generations of fashion designers united in a place of rich history. From left, Awapuna wears the smart tailoring of Pōneke-based designer James Bush who completed his MA in menswear at the University of Westminster, London, in 2018, and gained a place on the British Fashion Council’s prestigious graduate programme. Showing this Thursday as part of the Viva Next Gen group show, James’ elegant point of view is a welcome offering to the local scene. Up close we see the nostalgic details of a Campbell Luke ensemble of a lace dress overlay worn by Arihia, over a frill collar blouse and mesh skirt. Shona Tawhiao earrings $173.
Leonie dons a simple shift dress, $529, from established designer Kate Sylvester, who celebrates 30 years in business this year. Her show on Thursday evening as part of the Fashion Week schedule is highly anticipated, combining a mix of in-season and one-off pieces that Kate has created for the show.
Outside the marae, our models are up close and personal with carved representations of the many tribal ancestors throughout the land. Here, the site is also home to carving workshops, highlighting the home of Ōrākei Marae as a hub of creativity and a space where generations of tohunga whakairo (carvers) can pass on their knowledge
of the craft.
Arihia wears an ensemble by Campbell Luke (POA) and Shona Tawhiao earrings $173. Leonie dons a simple Kate Sylvester shift dress, $529
ARIHIA
The gardens and natural bush are a haven for nurturing the earth, inspiring a sense of community and creativity. Upholding the values of the natural world through creativity is another aspect of what Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei offers. Like its weaving wānanga aimed at helping maintain the time-honoured tradition of raranga, the art of Māori weaving.
On Monday this week, Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei welcomed the NZFW: Kahuria team and participating designers to Ōrākei Marae, gifting a pihepihe — a style of Māori cloak created by Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei weaver, Beronia Scott (iwi weaving practioner). The pihepihe, also named Kahuria, shares a message of sustainability and encourages us all to adorn our environment with love and care. If our taiao is healthy, so too are the people.
Arihia wears Shona Tawhiao jumper $259 and earring $173 (a pair). Kate Sylvester shorts $369. Kete from Campbell Luke.
ARIHIA
The gardens and natural bush are a haven for nurturing the earth, inspiring a sense of community and creativity. Upholding the values of the natural world through creativity is another aspect of what Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei offers. Like its weaving wānanga aimed at helping maintain the time-honoured tradition of raranga, the art of Māori weaving.
On Monday this week, Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei welcomed the NZFW: Kahuria team and participating designers to Ōrākei Marae, gifting a pihepihe — a style of Māori cloak created by Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei weaver, Beronia Scott (iwi weaving practioner). The pihepihe, also named Kahuria, shares a message of sustainability and encourages us all to adorn our environment with love and care. If our taiao is healthy, so too are the people.
Arihia wears Shona Tawhiao jumper $259 and earring $173 (a pair). Kate Sylvester shorts $369. Kete from Campbell Luke.
Ngāti Whātua protesters, Bastion Point, March 1977. Photo / NZ Herald archive
ARIHIA
Arihia wears Rory William Docherty shirt $765 and skirt $1075. Shona Tawhiao earrings $173.
HIWAWIKI
Hiwawiki wears Stink shirt $85, hoodie $90 and jeans $120.
SEAN
Sean wears Manaaki waistcoat $240. Little Natives earring $65.
AWA
Awa wears James Bush coat $1400, shirt $520, and skirt (POA).
LEONIE
Leonie wears Kate Sylvester dress $529.
Marama Royal (chair, Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei Trust) is adorned by the korowai named ‘Te Kahu Tōpuni o Tuperiri’, an inspiration for New Zealand Fashion Week’s gifted new name, Kahuria.
THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME
It’s your last chance to head to the exhibition Pohewa Pāhewa: A Māori Design Kaupapa, curated by Desna Whaanga-Schollum, Tyrone Ohia, Graham Tipene, Johnson Witehira and Zoe Black, at Objectspace before its final day this Sunday, September 3.
There you’ll discover an interrogation of Western design practice through a Māori lens. Here, our cast of fresh faces take a moment to dream and wonder at the work of their elders, expert weavers Reihana Parata QSM (Aunty Doe), and Morehu Flutey-Henare (Nanny Mū), two extraordinarily gifted and humble Ngāi Tahu wāhine with a shared passion and a long-standing creative partnership.
Along with technical support from Wayne Youle, this resulting work Ngā Whāriki Manaaki takes up the space of one of the gallery’s rooms, featuring a series of weaving patterns rendered in pavers throughout Te Papa Ōtākaro/Avon River Precinct in Ōtautahi Christchurch. Each whāriki is an arrangement of natural stone pavers of varying shades and colours.
“Through this kaupapa we see a fundamentally colonial material, the paving stone, transformed with deep intention and mātauranga Māori,” say the pair in a statement. “Redefining the landscape in which it now lies, each whāriki was designed to infuse Christchurch’s urban environment with the concept of manaaki.”
Left to right: Awa wears Manaaki cardigan $675 and jeans (POA). James Bush shirt $520. Shona Tawhiao earrings $75. Arihia wears Rory William Docherty shirt $765 and skirt $1075. Shona Tawhiao earrings $173. Sean wears Manaaki waistcoat $240. Little Natives earring $65. Leonie wears Kate Sylvester dress $549. Mary Curtis Groove 17 bead necklace, rimu, silk, $900, from Masterworks Gallery. Hiwawiki wears Stink shirt $85, hoodie $90 and jeans $120.
Talent / Awa from Self Agency, Leonie and Arihia from 62 Management, Hiwawiki from Red 11, Sean from Unique Models
Photographer’s assistant / Apela Bell. Make-up / Rae Sacha.
Hair / Henare Davidson.
Fashion assistant / George Funaki
Special thanks to Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei. Thanks to Te Amohaere Morehu and Joseph Royal from Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei. Thanks to Zoe Black and Victoria McAdam and the team at Objectspace.
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