Words: Kurt Bayer
Design: Paul Slater


A wanted man in his homeland, broad daylight provided the best cover. The last safe house had felt compromised, it was time to move.

He walked quickly, but not too quickly, normal but not too normal, keeping to the busier thoroughfares of Kote Sangi, that bustling, throbbing neighbourhood of western Kabul, part of the capital’s District 5. Taliban were now everywhere.

His new beard was itchy. Patchy, he hates it. But it does provide some natural camouflage, blending in with the new order. He scratched it through the night, unable to sleep, scrolling Google and Wikipedia, learning more about New Zealand. Aotearoa. Captain Cook. The Treaty of Waitangi and how Britain had colonised it, like they tried to do here, many wars ago.

Taliban on streets of Kabul. Photo / AP

Taliban on streets of Kabul. Photo / AP

With their Nike sneakers and M16 assault rifles, Taliban gunmen patrolled nights too, when the rules were shadier and trigger-fingers twitchier. They carried hit lists. Names of countrymen and women who had worked with the foreign infidels. Nowroz Ali, who volunteered with the New Zealanders and Americans in his home province of Bamiyan, believed his name was prominent.

Once, not too long ago, militants photographed him working at the Kiwi Base front gate and sent him a “night letter”. Written in Pashto, with the seal of the Taliban, it was posted on the front door to his house and explicitly laid out how this apostate’s head must be chopped off and his body thrown to the dogs.

Ali had heard they had biometric machines now too, to identify you. You put your finger in this machine and up comes your details. Then it’s over.

Paranoid? Maybe. But who could blame him for that. He had seen Taliban brutality up close many times. His grandfather had been murdered when Ali was a child. Friends, ex-colleagues executed, his village razed to the ground, the night letter ... He was well known.

Rounding a corner, they’re there. A militants’ checkpoint. His heart thuds like those hefty .50 calibre machine guns the Kiwi boys would fire from atop Humvees. He has already wiped his phone — all incriminating photographs have been deleted, along with email trails and social media accounts, WhatsApp, Facebook — but he’s not taking any risks. He turns and runs. He keeps running. And he wonders if he will ever escape his beloved homeland which no longer feels like home. He can’t run forever.

The first time Nowroz Ali ran for his life, he was just a boy. The memory remains clear as an Afghan alpine dawn.

Born in the small village of Sarasyab in the historical province of Bamiyan, famed for its giant sixth-century monumental statues of Buddha, life was initially peaceful. He enjoyed playing with his nine siblings in the rocky, barren landscape, and paying attention to his religious studies.

The once giant Buddhas of Bamiyan. Photo / NZPA

The once giant Buddhas of Bamiyan. Photo / NZPA

But as the 90s drew to a close, the hardline Islamic Taliban movement grew stronger. Sharia law was ruthlessly enforced. Girls like his three sisters were no longer allowed to go to school, or venture out in public alone. As Pashtuns who had ruled Afghanistan largely for the last two centuries, they felt they were following in the footsteps of their clans. There was no space, in their minds, for the members of the Hazara ethnic group like Ali’s family.

In 1996, there was a massacre in his hometown. His family, fearing for their safety, fled to the Kuhi Baba mountain range, the western extension of the Hindu Kush. There, they hid, not knowing when they might ever be able to return.

It all changed on September 11, 2001 when the Islamic extremist group al-Qaeda hijacked four aeroplanes and carried out suicide terrorist attacks on American soil. Led by the son of a Saudi billionaire Osama Bin Laden, the Americans believed he had been harboured by the Taliban and was hiding out in the Tora Bora mountains of Afghanistan.

Osama bin Laden

Osama bin Laden

While the US started missile attacks and Special Forces raids on suspected, fortified Bin Laden caves, which would ultimately lead to a 20-year war and occupation that only ended this year, the Ali family cautiously came out of hiding.
They stumbled into horrendous scenes. Bodies of massacred relatives were piled at Bamiyan city’s airport. Among them was Ali’s grandfather.

They carried the bodies home for a proper burial. There, they found a smouldering scene. Their houses had been burned down; all of their possessions stolen or destroyed.

So when the foreign soldiers arrived, scattering the Taliban into the dust, local families welcomed them. This was seen as a new hope for lasting peace. While Ali completed high school, focusing on general studies and the English language, the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) set up a Bamiyan base.

Sarasyab was just one kilometre from what had become known as Kiwi Base.

The soldiers were friendly there, everyone knew. They stopped and spoke with everyone, including the kids like Ali. They had chocolate and smiles. The soldiers, New Zealanders, started English classes for local people. Hearts and minds, rather than bullets and bombs. Ali went along.

Kiwi soldier patrols a dusty Afghanistan street. Photo / NZME

Kiwi soldier patrols a dusty Afghanistan street. Photo / NZME

He was a fast learner. His boyish enthusiasm and positivity rubbed off on the troops. Ali, fresh out of high school, decided to teach the funny language to others in the community.

“Even though I was not a professional teacher, everyone welcomed my idea,” he says.

The New Zealand Provincial Reconstruction Team (NZ PRT) — deployments of Kiwi soldiers posted to Afghanistan and headquartered at Kiwi Base in Bamiyan — helped him out, fed him stationery. He soon had around 50 students attending his free classes.

The PRT’s padre paid a visit and was struck by this youthful community leader who had a strong grasp of English and of what the New Zealanders were trying to do in the region. Ali was asked if he wanted to work at the base’s front gate as a volunteer. He leapt at the opportunity.

Nowroz Ali and interpreter who worked with New Zealand forces in Bamyan Province.

Nowroz Ali and interpreter who worked with New Zealand forces in Bamyan Province.

It was 2010 and the war was yet to really heat up for the New Zealanders there. For a long time in the war, Bamiyan had been a relatively peaceful region, with the Taliban staying largely underground and impotent, especially compared to the heavy fighting the British were doing in Helmand Province and the Americans in Kandahar and elsewhere.

Ali’s job was translating meetings at the Kiwi Base main gate between soldiers and locals, including head of councils. Later, when he became a more official interpreter, he even attended high-level summits with NZDF intelligence forces and PRT commanders.

It was a dangerous, unpaid job. Eight New Zealanders were killed in the region, including Lance Corporals Rory Patrick Malone and Pralli Durrer during the fierce Battle of Baghak, and a fortnight later on August 19, 2012, Corporal Luke Tamatea, 31, Lance Corporal Jacinda Baker, 26, and Private Richard Harris, 21, who all died when their Humvee hit a 20kg roadside improvised explosive device.

Corporal Luke Tamatea, 31, Lance Corporal Jacinda Baker, 26 and Private Richard Harris, 21, all killed in an IED explosion in Afghanistan on August 19, 2012. Photo / New Zealand Defence Force

Corporal Luke Tamatea, 31, Lance Corporal Jacinda Baker, 26 and Private Richard Harris, 21, all killed in an IED explosion in Afghanistan on August 19, 2012. Photo / New Zealand Defence Force

His whole village knew Ali worked there. And so did the Taliban insurgents, who photographed him at his post. He was threatened and labelled an apostate whose head must be cut off.

But while the Kiwis and Americans were around, he was relatively safe.

Retired (Major) Ash Walker, who spent 18 years in the Army and had several missions in Afghanistan, used Ali several times as a guide and translator on logistical jobs when he’d come up to Bamiyan from Bagram Air Base.

He recalls Ali as one of a handful of young, ambitious, entrepreneurial kids who used to hang around the base gates offering their services.

“He was not backwards in coming forward to offer free services in order to feather his nest for a position as an interpreter or translator in the NZDF. He was just entrepreneurial, energetic, go-get-’em — good assets and attributes really, someone that I would welcome into New Zealand with open arms,” Walker says.

US Army Lieutenant Colonel Fred Cost also remembers meeting Ali and his mates. They were all “very ambitious” to get jobs with them.

He says Ali was “a good kid” and taken on by the Americans as an interpreter.

“Most of the US and NZ service members knew the interpreters well enough to develop personal relationships based on missions they’d been on,” says Cost, who retired as a full colonel in 2018.

Ali taught him Dari and they would meet on Sundays after dinner to chat and go over the language.

Like Walker, they have kept in touch and Cost says Ali has “developed into a respectable man”.

In September 2011, Ali was rewarded for his services, with a “certificate of appreciation” by the US Security Force Assistance Team for his “outstanding performance of duty as an interpreter for Task Force Patriot (Bamiyan)”.

He felt he had done all the right things. And so when he started hearing about other interpreters who had worked with the NZDF being resettled in New Zealand, he applied to do the same. It was an opportunity like no other.

But in 2015, then Minister of Immigration Michael Woodhouse replied to say he was unsuccessful. “I have carefully considered your submissions and particular circumstances. I advise that I am not prepared to intervene in your case to grant you residence,” the short note stated.

Ever since, he has continued to argue his case with New Zealand authorities.

He discovered that other volunteers from his same village had been given three years’ salary to start a new life safely elsewhere in Afghanistan. Ali struggled to understand why he was being treated any differently.

New Zealand spent two decades in Afghanistan. Photo / NZME

New Zealand spent two decades in Afghanistan. Photo / NZME

And so when newly-elected US President Joe Biden announced earlier this year that all US troops would be withdrawn from Afghanistan by September — coming after a major scale down during the Trump administration — Ali could see the writing on the wall. This was what the Talibs had been waiting for, all the time in the world.

Back in January this year, a desperate Ali approached Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern, pleading for help. She passed it on to Associate Minister of Immigration Phil Twyford who gave him the bad news.

Ali told the Herald in March.

But even as Nato allies began withdrawing and the Taliban immediately started recapturing provincial capitals, port towns, remote rural zones, border checkpoints and highways, New Zealand didn’t want to know.

Taliban members pose for a photo after they took over Panjshir Valley. Photo / Getty Images

Taliban members pose for a photo after they took over Panjshir Valley. Photo / Getty Images

Immigration Minister Kris Faafoi was blunt in his one-page July 5 response to Ali as part of a group of 38 Afghan civilians who helped the New Zealand war effort in Afghanistan, including interpreters, carpenters, electricians, mechanics, cleaners, and a female kitchen worker. “New Zealand has recognised the critical role that many Afghan citizens played during the international deployment in Afghanistan,” Faafoi wrote.

Ali couldn’t believe it. Old Talibs were emerging from the hills. It would only be a matter of time before someone sold him out. Everyone knew he worked for the foreigners. That was the equivalent of a death sentence.

The decision to flee had been made for him.

The Panjshir Valley. Photo / Getty Images

The Panjshir Valley. Photo / Getty Images

In Baburnama, the memoirs of Zahir-ud-Din Muhammad Babur (1483-1530), founder of the Mughal Empire and descendant of Timur, one of the greatest military leaders and tacticians in history, he mentions bandits who menace the road outside Kabul to Panjshir Valley.

“[It] is the thoroughfare of Kafir highwaymen who also, being so near, take tax off it. They have gone through it, killing a mass of persons, and doing very evil deeds, since I came this last time and conquered Hindustan.”

Five hundred years later, nothing much had changed as Nowroz Ali negotiated the Bamiyan-Kabul Highway. He had been on the road since pre-dawn, carrying nothing but a small backpack. Everything else, all his worldly possessions, his father and family, left behind. He didn’t know then that it could be the last time he ever saw them.

It was August 13, 2021. The pace of the Taliban’s rampant takeover was stunning the world. By now, they had taken control of well more than half of the country’s provinces. Bamiyan was surrounded. Rumours of massacres and reprisals were rife.

People walk through a market in downtown Kabul. Photo / AP

People walk through a market in downtown Kabul. Photo / AP

Ali had to get to Kabul. It was believed the capital and its five million inhabitants would be safe for many months. The Americans were still there, for now, and the well-trained and funded Afghan National Army (ANA), would stand firm, or so it was believed.

On the road, he was terrified. He kept his head down and tried to hustle through the many checkpoints. Taliban fighters were smiling and joking. Elsewhere, he noticed that ANA soldiers looked terrified. “You could see defeat in their eyes.”

Around 10pm, he finally made it to Kabul. He had arranged to stay with a friend. Exhausted, he was desperate for news. Word was, more towns and districts had fallen. There was no stopping them.

The next day, Ali went to an internet cafe. By 1pm, there were rumours that Kabul was about to fall. He checked the BBC World Service.

An American Chinook helicopter flies over the US Embassy in the last days of the country's withdrawal. Photo / File 

An American Chinook helicopter flies over the US Embassy in the last days of the country's withdrawal. Photo / File 

Steady streams of huge American Chinook helicopters — the unique sound of the twin rotors, one of the soundtracks of the two-decades “forever war” in Afghanistan coming over loud and clear — were seen ferrying to and from the US Embassy, rescuing staffers and other personnel. Black Hawk and Apache helicopters were shooting heat flares overhead.

Smoke could be seen filling the air as Americans burned top-secret documents. There were reports of gunfire, explosions.

Ali phoned his friend and said he needed to leave. Urgently. But the connection was lost.

The Taliban pose in the Presidential Palace after the rapid fall of Kabul. Photo / AP

The Taliban pose in the Presidential Palace after the rapid fall of Kabul. Photo / AP

Kabul had fallen. The ANA hadn’t fired a shot. And Taliban leaders were on TV screens around the world posing with gun-toting bodyguards in the presidential palace. The president, Ashraf Ghani had already fled the country.

Ali went into deep hiding.

Kiwi soldiers tried to help as many visa and passport holders as they could. Photo / NZDF

Kiwi soldiers tried to help as many visa and passport holders as they could. Photo / NZDF

From his latest bolthole, he watched, like the rest of the world, in horror, but he could appreciate the levels of desperation.

Zooming in on his cellphone, yes, those dark specks were indeed humans. Falling from the rising military aircraft. Plummeting to their deaths.

Watching the remarkable, sickening scenes of Afghans trying to cling to departing planes, Ali felt like he was losing his mind. Urgent visa applications were being processed, he was told by New Zealand officials. Hang tight.

Hang tight? He moved safe houses five times. Every time, the feeling of danger ramping up.

Meanwhile, crowds of thousands surged outside Hamid Karzai International Airport’s perimeter razorwire and high concrete fences.

Hundreds of military aircraft had been making evacuation flights over the last 10-plus days, rushing at-risk Afghans, former interpreters, and other civilians out of the country which had just fallen into Taliban hands after 20 years of war.

Just getting to the airport was an exercise in running the gauntlet.

The Taliban, who controlled the checkpoints outside the airport, told the New Zealand Herald that anyone with the right paperwork — regardless of their previous work with occupying forces — would be given safe passage.

Thousands were kept behind the airport perimeter. Photo / AP

Thousands were kept behind the airport perimeter. Photo / AP

Ali wasn’t so trusting. And besides, he was still waiting for his paperwork.

“Each minute was like a long hour,” he says, looking back.

By August 25, he was holed up in a house near the parliament building. There were reports Kiwis and New Zealand visa holders had been making it out, helped by crack NZSAS troops who had ventured outside the airport’s perimeter to help people. Just getting the right people to the right spot, amid the desperate throngs of people, was proving near impossible. By a series of encrypted messages, sent satellite images, and holding up code words like “Taupo” and “NZ”, some were able to get through and were ushered on to mercy flights out of the country.

Finally, later that night, he got the news he wanted.

“Good news,” he messaged me.

But he never made it.

The New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade (MFAT), which had been furiously working to process visas, sent out an urgent advisory to stay away from the airport.

Photo / NZDF

Photo / NZDF

A “very specific threat stream” had been identified by intelligence networks that terror group ISIS-K, who are violently opposed to the Taliban, were planning a major terrorist attack.

Hours later, it happened.

Two suicide bombers blew themselves up among the crowds outside the airport, while gunmen opened fire, killing at least 183 people, including 13 members of the United States military.

And that was that. After days of endless so-called “freedom flights”, getting thousands out of the tumultuous country, the evacuation flights ceased.

Photo / NZDF

Photo / NZDF

The NZDF, which had sent a Royal New Zealand Air Force (RNZAF) C-130, and completed three missions, weren’t going back. It was too dangerous.

“We are now in limbo,” a forlorn Ali messaged.

Afghan final US flight. Photo / AP

Afghan final US flight. Photo / AP

Just after midnight, days later, gunshots ring out. Pop pop poppoppop. He scrunches his bed covers up to his chin. Uncontrollable shaking. Where are they firing? Are they coming for him? Is this full-scale war now?

Ali sends shaky voice messages to me in New Zealand.

he says.

Live news reports from Kabul show the final American plane of soldiers, in shimmering green night-vision lights, take off from the capital’s international airport, severing the final tie with the country after two decades of war and bloodshed. The gunfire is celebratory.

“The world should have learned their lesson and this is the enjoyable moment of victory,” said the Taliban spokesman Zabihullah Mujahid in a livestream.

Taliban officials, including Zabihullah Mujahid, third from right, announcing victory at the airport in Kabul. Photo / NYT

Taliban officials, including Zabihullah Mujahid, third from right, announcing victory at the airport in Kabul. Photo / NYT

I tell Ali, it’s okay. It’s happy Talib gunfire.

“You relieved me, Kurt. Hope it’s for celebration.”

Friends sheltered him.

“No idea when we will be evacuated,” he messages.

“We don’t have time to waste on bureaucracy. It’s coming on [my] mind that they are looking for me.

“It’s not normal ... it’s 1.20am and I’m writing this.”

Funds were running low. Ali tried queuing at the bank but the line never moved and he returned empty-handed. He was surviving on potatoes sent from his father outside of Kabul. He was surviving, he said, but not living.

Taliban fighters sit next to street vendors at a local market in Kabul. Photo / AP

Taliban fighters sit next to street vendors at a local market in Kabul. Photo / AP

He kept googling New Zealand. Two islands, lots of sheep. A country with a free press and equal opportunities, regardless of gender, race, or sexual orientation.

There were also kiwi fruits, one of his favourites. He followed Prime Minister Ardern’s Facebook page.

If he ever made it, he wanted to study sociology. He searched Auckland, Waikato and Massey universities and took virtual campus tours.

Meanwhile, he badgered MFAT and other officials. Although the evacuations through Kabul airport, now in the hands of the Taliban, had been ruled out, what about land crossings? Uzbekistan? Britain, he’d heard, had struck a deal with Pakistan to help their people out. Private contractors were another option.

Reports that Taliban were searching properties door-to-door made him physically shake.

Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern and Chief of Defence Air Marshal Kevin Short give a briefing on the rescue effort undertaken in Afghanistan. Photo / Robert kitchin

Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern and Chief of Defence Air Marshal Kevin Short give a briefing on the rescue effort undertaken in Afghanistan. Photo / Robert kitchin

On September 20, he messaged: “Cabinet is having a meeting on us today? Is there any plan to evacuate us? Why is there not a timeframe? Time matters.”

It would be weeks before any good news came. Then, murmurings that good news will come for people, like him, with passports.

And finally, on October 16 he was told he would be getting out. A flight would be leaving soon. Get ready.

Nowroz Ali. Photo / Supplied

Nowroz Ali. Photo / Supplied

Last Sunday, he told the Herald that he was out of the country. British-led operations have got other groups of New Zealand citizens, permanent residents, and family out, with help from the Qatari government in recent weeks. But for security reasons, the Herald will not publish details of how Ali managed to leave Afghanistan. It’s hoped that others, including comrades who also worked with the NZDF, might be able to follow a similar route. But he was messaging from another country in the Middle East. He was safe, slightly shell-shocked, but safe.

Just before his final long-haul flights to New Zealand — due to land tomorrow (Saturday) — he sent one final message.

“I’m feeling excited, mate. Can’t wait.”