The states of play
The big cities attract a lot of attention but the real USA is often found in a “continent of communities” which offer luxury, culinary experiences and the greatest of great outdoors.
Aspen’s look of luxe
Elvis. Madonna. Prince. Someone or something has made it when they’re referenced in one word. So it is with Aspen.
Mention the name and you don’t need to add “Colorado” or “skiing”. But how did a down-on-its-luck mining town become a favourite, luxury hangout for the richest and most famous?
That old real estate favourite, location, helped. Four ski mountains make up the world-renowned Aspen Snowmass resort. Aspen Mountain, locally referred to as Ajax, rises directly from downtown.
More than that, Aspen’s beautiful scenery and open space lends itself to other winter sports — cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, fly-fishing, even hot-air ballooning. After a hard day of play there’s a legendary après-ski scene, world-class restaurants or a show at one of the many venues and resorts.
Summer offers even more outdoor opportunities: rafting, tramping, biking, rock-climbing, fishing, golf, horse riding, paragliding, all within a few steps of downtown.
Aspen is also known for its luxury shopping, with a downtown not like most others. In one area, there is an incredible range of designer fashion stores within a short stroll of one another. Sprinkled in between are some equally intoxicating boutiques. Feeling the chill? Nip in and buy a classy coat off the peg — and there are also a number of other luxury boutiques.
As the locals say, “In Aspen, there’s always the chance you could be talking to a billionaire and you’d never know it.”
Independence Square Hotel in Aspen, Colorado.
Independence Square Hotel in Aspen, Colorado.
Several generations back, Aspen was a remote outpost where less than 700 hearty souls somehow scraped by (and grew their own food) at nearly 2500m above sea level.
The town owes its transformation to cardboard carton magnate Walter Paepcke, who created the Aspen Institute for artists, scientists and economists to “come together and share ideas, and each with their own unique perspective, come up with solutions to the great issues of humanity” from the shadows of World War II.
Celebrities realised the isolated ski resort was a hideaway where they could be almost anonymous. Ask any longtime local and you’re bound to hear a story about sitting next to Jack Nicholson at the bar or seeing Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell stroll down the street.
As more of the rich and famous bought homes, prices went from fairly expensive to mind-boggling. Aspen is one of four ski destinations in the world where homes consistently sell for over $US25 million and why Red Mountain is nicknamed “Billionaire Mountain”. Properties range up to $US33.5 million — and above.
Sonoma — even the mud is special
From San Francisco’s centre, cross the Golden Gate Bridge, drive north for 50km, and you’re a world away from one of the world’s most fabled cities: a region of rolling hills, broad, sandy Pacific Coast surf beaches, towering redwoods, peaceful towns and villages.
Sonoma Valley is famous for its 425 wineries, acclaimed produce and cuisine. Hand-in-hand with that love of nature’s landscapes and its bounty goes a devotion to the benefits of the wellness lifestyle.
Great year-round weather and access to the outdoors, the mountains, forests and beaches inspire Sonomans and visitors. Famous for the farm-to-table movement, healthy, fresh ingredients abound on nearly every menu.
The region boasts more than 40 spas and wellness centres, offering soothing, restorative treatments using local products like goat's milk, honey, grape seeds and wine. Even the local mud is special, bringing warming wraps and soothing skin.
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate in Sonoma County, California.
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate in Sonoma County, California.
For centuries, the county's geothermal springs attracted Native Americans from surrounding regions and well beyond. Many would travel for days to immerse themselves in the waters. Today, visitors can enjoy three of Sonoma Valley's hot springs, Boyes Hot Springs, Morton's Hot Springs, and Agua Caliente.
For ultimate relaxation and renewal, many spas are located inside Sonoma Country’s tranche of luxurious resorts and inns, tempting visitors to extend the therapy into a plush, restorative getaway experience.
Each of these exclusive retreats has its own unique style. It might be a tiny Mediterranean-style resort with a luxurious spa, sparkling pool, hot tubs and a Himalayan Salt Stone Massage, a Zen experience from Japan with meditation in creek-side sand gardens, massages in outdoor pagodas amid the trees, and bathing in wooden tubs filled with finely ground cedar, rice bran and plant enzymes, or more traditional American experience at an upscale rural property amid the towering redwoods of the Russian River Valley, with a Michelin-starred restaurant.
The charm of Charleston
Rainbow Row in Charleston, South Carolina.
Rainbow Row in Charleston, South Carolina.
Coming from the planet’s youngest country, New Zealand travellers often seek to linger in older societies, longer traditions. Where better than the USA’s most historic cities?
Nestled along the South Carolina coast, Charleston is one of the oldest, renowned for its traditional Southern hospitality, cobblestone streets, centuries-old architecture and pivotal role in American history.
It’s also a thriving, contemporary centre, with its cuisine, alluring waterfront, sandy beaches and year-round calendar of events and activities earning the accolade of “one of America’s most liveable cities” — the best of yesterday and today in one easy-going package.
The graceful, low-rise city is known for its preservation efforts, allowing visitors to see pre-Civil War architecture with intricate wrought ironwork, stately legal and governmental buildings, and the mass of 400 churches, some dating from the 18th Century — all connected by beautiful cobblestone streets.
One of the most picturesque landmarks, Rainbow Row, is a street of 13 colourful houses representing Charleston’s revival after a devastating fire in 1776; its most historic is Fort Sumter, where the first shots in the Civil War were fired.
But the modern city is just as enticing to visitors. Charleston has become known as “Silicon Harbor” because of all the tech companies setting up shop; the beach town is a haven for entrepreneurs, adding a quirky, laidback vibe to the place.
That’s evident in its newly gained reputation as a mecca for exquisite Southern cuisine, from soul-warming comfort food to chefs creating innovative interpretations of classic dishes.
At the heart of Charleston’s culinary identity are regional favourites such as shrimp and grits, which blend fresh local seafood and the creamy, ground-corn side that’s a staple of Southern dining.
Reflecting its rural roots, Charleston also focuses on farm-to-table dining with classic Southern ingredients like okra, collard greens and cornbread can be found everywhere from upscale eateries to down-home diners. Differentiating it even further is this part of the world’s unique take on barbecue.
The state’s shoreline of sandy, sub-tropical beaches and sea islands, like Folly Beach, and its laid-back atmosphere attracts surfers and sunbathers, while Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island provide a more serene escape.
When it comes to places to stay, the Southern tradition of old-fashioned hospitality is to the fore, coupled with the can-do energy that’s arrived in the city over the past decade. Visitors find them reflected in a flowering of distinctive, character-full, and often bohemian new accommodation, from colourful boutique stays to grand, art-driven buildings in the charming city centre to expansive resorts along the coast and on the islands.
Texas’s melting pot
Walk through any town in almost any country and you’ll see the influence of American food: hamburgers, tacos, sodas and milkshakes. But these are only some of the nation’s culinary treats. Centuries of settlement, of arrivals from across the globe, and an abundance of natural produce go into a culinary melting pot to be dished up in an exciting fusion of tastes and flavours.
Some are traditional, as in the ever-growing Texas city of Austin’s exciting dining and drinking scene, built around oak-smoked barbecue, Tex-Mex fare and the don’t-miss-‘em breakfast tacos, ingredients proudly local-sourced. Chefs test out ideas with food trucks, popping up every which way to see what dishes really stick and can be taken back to their physical restaurants.
Take the legendary Franklin Barbecue. Aaron Franklin opened for business in a small trailer in 2009; now, people begin to queue on the sidewalk at 5am every day for lunch at his central city shrine to slow-cooked brisket.
If fine dining is more your flavour, try Emmer and Rye where the exquisite menu is ever-changing, based on local farm crops. The flavours are inspired by head chef Kevin Fink’s experience in Copenhagen and Denmark. Or for a slice of Japan in Texas, check out Toshokan and their high-end 14-course sushi meal. Book ahead though, this place only seats six at a time.
The city and its surrounding suburbs sizzle, crackle and pop with eateries drawing their inspiration from the hundreds of ethnicities that make up the state’s 27 million population.
In the nearby Hill Country, mecca for hiking, swimming and just taking in the scenery, visitors can choose from dozens of craft breweries, bakeries, pizza and more. Surprise: there are some exceptional vintages to be found at the 400 vineyards — predominantly whites, fashioned from grapes you’ll never find in Marlborough.
Texas is world famous for its barbecue.
Texas is world famous for its barbecue.
Texas is world famous for its barbecue.
Texas is world famous for its barbecue.
The heights of Houston, Tennessee and Baltimore
If you think you know what Texas is about, Houston might surprise you. Located just inland from the Gulf of Mexico’s white sand coastline, it’s a bayou city, and the “Space City”— home to NASA’s Manned Spacecraft Center. And, yes, it’s “the heart of cowboy country.” But it’s also the fourth largest, and most diverse, city in the United States.
For example, Houston’s Chinatown — sometimes called Asia Town — is home to dozens of restaurants and stores from a coterie of cultures.
In a city full of art, locals recommend taking the Metrorail off the beaten path to the Rothko Chapel, where the city disappears behind you. This non-denominational chapel is both a spiritual centre that welcomes all faiths and a home to major works of modern art by Mark Rothko. You can just sit there and meditate, or daydream.
It’s hard to beat the variety of things to do in Tennessee — hiking the Appalachian Trail, appreciating Dolly Parton’s talents at her Dollywood theme park, sipping Jack Daniels and barbecue in Lynchburg, making the pilgrimage to Graceland or paying respects at the National Civil Rights Museum.
Music draws many visitors. Tennessee is legendary for the foot-tapping, soul-saving kind — blues, bluegrass, country, rock and roll, and everything in between. In Memphis, Elvis Presley’s estate, the blues bars on Beale St; in Nashville, live gigs at the Ryman Auditorium and a little bit of country at the Grand Ole Opry; in Brownsville, the schoolhouse-turned-museum honouring Tina Turner.
But Tennessee can satisfy many more appetites: the flavours of slow-cooked, pork-based Memphis barbecue or spicy Nashville hot chicken, washed down with oak barrel-aged whiskey at Jack Daniel’s in Lynchburg — every bottle made from a single, nearby spring of water.
Tennessee Whiskey barrels.
Tennessee Whiskey barrels.
Food festivals celebrate everything from cornbread and biscuits to the marshmallow-y goodness of Moon Pie and Jack Daniel's World Championship Invitational Barbecue at the Lynchburg estate, recognised as the world standard. There are 30 distilleries along the Tennessee Whiskey Trail, while cold beers are on tap at dozens of craft breweries in Knoxville, Memphis and Nashville.
Tennessee is just one of the many states nestled under the towers of the impressive Appalachian Mountain range. Saluted since the days of Davy Crockett, the people of the Appalachian Mountains maintain their flourishing culture amid breathtaking beauty, endless trails and peaceful waterfalls — Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the USA’s most-visited natural treasure. Many of the Mississippi riverboat cruises depart from Memphis.
From landlocked Tennessee to the Atlantic coast, Baltimore is a historic and vibrant waterfront city made up of unique neighbourhoods. Artisanal local eateries, imaginative food halls and a growing craft beer and spirits scene continue to generate excitement.
The famous water taxis of Baltimore, Maryland.
The famous water taxis of Baltimore, Maryland.
No trip to Maryland’s largest city is complete without trying local seafood, especially crab, like Faidley’s Seafood, family-owned since 1886 and named one of “The 20 Most Iconic Food Destinations across America”.
Baltimore has plenty of upmarket restaurants that combine local ingredients with original cuisines: the high-end bistro Magdalena in The Ivy Hotel, the Argentinian restaurant Bar Vasquez’s Patagonian red shrimp and spicy charred lemon sauce or beef topped with chimichurri sauces; at Tagliata, high-quality seafood, hand-rolled pasta and classic Italian dishes.
The city’s original one-stop eatery is Lexington Market, the USA’s oldest public market. Over the last 238 years, the market has grown from a farmers’ market for locally grown produce to a vibrant centre of commerce with an international assemblage of fresh and prepared food. Faidley’s Seafood local favourites include oysters, bakery, chicken and waffles, fried chicken sandwiches and cuisines from the Mediterranean or Asia, and the market as a whole was proclaimed “the gastronomic capital of the world” by Ralph Waldo Emerson.
Baltimore has a fine line in local beverages, too. The Brewer’s Art produces Belgian-style beers; Union Craft Brewing has a frequently changing roster of tap beers and food trucks while the Heavy Seas lists promises “maritime- and pirate-inspired beers” including Powder Monkey, Loose Cannon, Peg Leg and 20 Year Storm. If spirits are in your wheelhouse, Sagamore Distillery creates rye whiskey made with local spring water.
Alaskan wonderland
Alaska.
Alaska.
Fairbanks, Alaska.
Fairbanks, Alaska.
When a nation stretches 4500km from ocean to ocean, there’s a lot of country in between. And the sheer diversity of the USA’s great outdoors — its mountains, lakes, rivers, canyons, geysers, glaciers and forests — makes it a wonderland for visitors who, rather than lie on a beach, prefer to tramp a trail or kayak, fish, mountain bike or meet the local wildlife.
Its northernmost state, Alaska, ranks as one of the country’s most active, adventurous destinations. Amid awe-inspiring scenery, ice-age glaciers, wildlife and a rich indigenous heritage, visitors test themselves by mushing a dog team, ice-climbing, fishing world-renowned waters and more.
Alaska’s vast size and sheer amount of virgin territory allows boundless opportunities for those hoping to glimpse of stately bald eagles and massive brown bears, sail beside humpback whales or watch thousands of caribou roam the tundra.
Nearly 100,000 glaciers carve through the Inside Passage and Interior Alaska mountains, viewed from flightseeing or helicopter tours and river cruises — or, close up, on guided treks.
Tramping is a quintessential experience. Picturesque trails and rugged pathways cross the state, from an easy-going walk to ancient rock carvings at Petroglyph Beach State Historical Park to otherworldly views at rugged Harding Icefield Trail. Others will relish the chance to kayak in remote fjords, bike mountain trails and fish for Pacific salmon and halibut.
Winter’s snows mean visitors won’t have to look far for picturesque spots for snowshoeing, skiing and snowmobiling or dog sledding. From August to April the colours and lights of the Northern Lights dance across the skies, the state’s long nights and remote areas free from light pollution making it an incredible place to view the show.
As the ancestral home of 229 Indigenous tribes, culture, dance, food and lifestyles are honoured from the Alaska Native Heritage Center in Anchorage to the Sheet'ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi Community House in Sitka.
The Pacific Northwest through to Yellowstone
The states of Washington and Oregon are known for moody weather, fabulous wine and some of the nation’s best outdoor activities. On the coast, visitors can hike to incredible waterfalls, climb Mt Rainier, kayak with orca in Puget Sound and explore unique cities; wine lovers will head inland to Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where volcanic soil and artisan winemakers create delicious pinot noir.
The neighbouring states of Idaho, Montana and Wyoming are home to the whopping Yellowstone National Park, sprawling across 5588sq km.
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.
The USA invented national parks, with many ranking among the world’s most beautiful spots, but Yellowstone is special — an unbelievably diverse region containing over half the world’s geysers, more than 300 waterfalls and over 1000 archaeological sites revealing 11,000 years of human influence.
The perfect destination for wild hiking and camping, Yellowstone supports huge populations of bison, wolves, elk and grizzly bears, and over 300 species of birds.
In the heart of the fabled Western states and home to Yellowstone, Utah is all about outdoor recreation. Outdoors types could spend years exploring the nooks and crannies of just one of five national parks, 44 state parks, nine national monuments, five national forests and two national recreation areas ranging from snow-capped mountains to wild rivers and red rock canyons, including 300 public campgrounds — all in Utah alone.
The United States is renowned for its natural wonders and Utah is one destination with an incredible array of choices. It’s a real-life Jurassic Park with one of the world’s most complete records of prehistoric life, dinosaur skeletons and discovery sites; for a more contemporary exploration, Utah is the ultimate geocaching destination, having set up high-tech scavenger hunting trails among natural wonders and cultural sites.
More than 600 species of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians and fish flourish in the state’s landscapes and climates, including the magnificent bighorn sheep, impressive against red rock landscapes.
Locals will be happy to show visitors more than 1000 fishable lakes and countless streams, cross-country skiing, rock climbing and bouldering, mountain and road cycling or off-road driving.
The adventures don’t quit at sunset. For stargazers, the International Dark Sky Association has recognised several areas for minimal to zero light pollution.
The Maine chance
A continent away, eastern states have their own charms and outdoor opportunities. In Maine, northernmost of the 48 “mainland” states, you’ll find farm- and sea-to-table eats and one-of-a-kind stays in local communities. Pick a cottage or seaside inn for a serene escape or follow the call of the wild to a campground or wilderness lodge.
Within a few hours drive of Portland, experience a degustation of adventure. Adrenaline junkies will love the world-class mountain bike trails of Carrabassett Valley with 125km of interconnected riding. While you’re at it, head over to “The Forks” for a wild white water rapids adventure where two great white water rivers converge: the Kennebec and Dead.
Days in next-door Vermont can be as full or unplanned as you like, with 20 ski resorts, 30 cross-country ski areas, 8000km of snowmobile trails and a 6km ice-skating trail to explore. As they say here, in the water, on a peak, exploring a trail or sleeping under the stars, recharging your batteries doesn’t require electricity.
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