Biddy Fraser-Davies has been battling the bureaucrats since 2009, when food safety officials spotted her on Country Calendar and turned up at her cheese-making business near Eketahuna to ensure she was complying with their rules. Last month she took up the cudgels again to draw the Primary Production Select Committee's attention to regulatory demands that are crippling her business.
The owner of Cwmglyn Cheese company, 74-year-old Biddy, hand-milks four Jersey cows on her small organic farm near Eketahuna. The regulatory regime - milking parlour inspections, herd inspections, TB inspections, risk management audits and so on - are formidable, frustrating and costly.
Regulatory fees consumed at least half of the $40,000 revenue she generated last year and testing for one of her cheeses worked out at a formidable $250 a kilogram.
New legislation prompted by the dairy botulism scare will make things more onerous. But as Biddy says, the rules are written as though she is as big as Fonterra whereas her batch size typically is just one cheese and not thousands of tonnes of cheeses.
Fonterra and other corporate cheesemakers can absorb the regulators' demands. But they manufacture cheese whereas artisans make it. Protocols appropriate for industrial operations, involving milk collected in bulk and stored over time, are plainly inappropriate for artisans whose milk goes straight from the cow to a cheese-making vat.