Using Mandarin for New Zealand "Xin xi lan" (roughly pronounced "shin see-lan"), only made me more frustrated. Shop and bar owners would point to a few found bottles excitedly, where upon inspection I found they were indeed from Xin xi lan, but were of the ubiquitous Marlborough sauvignon plonk variety.
Almost every wine joint I visited had divided their boutique premises into three sections: French, Italian and, wait for it, Australian.
Now, I can understand the preference for old world wines of Italian and French provenance. But the third category had me confused.
Is the Aussie product superior to ours? Given every time I quaff vino from across the Tasman only to wonder why, I doubt it. I was left wondering if, in fact, it's simply that their marketing's of a better vintage.
During six days in China I spied but two bottles from Hawke's Bay.
The first, in a Shangri-la moment, was a 2008 CJ Pask cabernet-merlot-malbec. Okay, so this wasn't spied on a wine list, or a boutique liquor store, rather, a souvenir shop.
As fate would have it, it sat on a shelf just below a David Trubridge-designed lightshade. It wasn't without a sense of pride I picked up both products for a better look; a little piece of bottled Hastings and an unmistakable design from Whakatu. After days of fruitless searching for a Bay product I found two in a tiny souvenir shop in downtown Shanghai.
Days later, tucking into the best Peking duck in Beijing, I again asked for the wine list. And there it was: Sacred Hill chardonnay.
My only disappointment was we'd already purchased a few bottles of red to match the duck. And besides, it was priced at 468 Chinese yuan, the equivalent of $90. An impressive mark-up from the $22-odd it's sold at here.
Good for them.
I retrieved my camera to take a shot of the wine list but was quickly prevented from doing so by restaurant management. Their wine list was top secret.
I mention this only because of today's wine story on page 3 where, speaking on China's growing wine market, Mission Estate Wines' Simon Nash says even a minuscule growth there would be huge for us.
Here's hoping this comes to fruition and that Hawke's Bay wine will one day boast a bigger volume in the People's Republic.
To Sacred Hill and CJ Pask, congratulations. Love your work.