Robertson Lodges' head chefs Barry Frith (The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs), James Honore (The Farm at Cape Kidnappers) and Jonathan Rogers (Matakauri Lodge). Photo /
Richard Brimmer
The Three Chefs Dinner with Dry River Wines at the Farm at Cape Kidnappers, Saturday, June 23
Situated atop rolling hills and rugged cliffs, the Farm at Cape Kidnappers provides the perfect setting for a luxury dinner.
It is a typical winter's day. The smell of a wood fire fills the air and the trees which line the driveway are highlighted by the red hues of the dwindling sun. It takes 20 minutes to get to the top, driving over numerous bridges, past man-made lakes, grazing sheep and darting rabbits. But it is worth the drive.
The interior is no different. Three long tables are laid out to host 53 guests, creating an intimate setting. The Scandinavian features give a warmth to the farm house and the views of vast landscape create an added sense of luxury.
It is a first for the three Robertson Lodges' head chefs - Barry Frith (The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs), James Honore (The Farm at Cape Kidnappers) and Jonathan Rogers (Matakauri Lodge) - who have come together to create a seven-course tasting menu for Winter F.A.W.C! 2018.
And it is just the second time Jonathan Rogers has been in the same room as the others, who have previously worked together. Yet you would never think it. As they come out for a quick break, exhaustion is evident on their faces, but so too is the connection between them.
"It's nice to get together with the boys and to share a passion. All the food looks really organic and pretty and it's all on different plates," Frith says. "We always talk on the phone but it's nice to stand shoulder to shoulder in the kitchen."
The trio have more than 30 years of combined experience: Frith, 12 years, Honore, 11 years, and Rogers, seven.
While some may think there would be rivalry in the kitchen, that is far from the case.
"I think everybody is quite passionate and very comfortable that they're doing is what they want to do," Frith says. "We all just draw on the ingredients and put the plate together the way we see in our minds and we're comfortable with that."
"It's more camaraderie. We have a lot of interests that are shared," Honore adds.
The Kauri Cliffs head chef believes it is fantastic for the group.
"It is championing everything they've put time and effort into to grow and then given us a chance to shine which is fantastic."
He said getting a full house was a "testament to the power of the Robertson group".
Each course showcases specialities from their regions and is matched to Dry River Wines by chief winemaker Wilco Lam.
"In the last five years we have started to work closer together and for this event I've seen the chiefs communicating a lot about putting the menus together and wanting to have my input," Lam said.
"There is a lot of excitement. People have been coming up to me and saying we never see Dry River Wines at as a tasting or at a dinner so it must be a special event."
Dry river wines has been in the Robertson family since 2003.
A citrus-cured Ora King salmon, with cucumber variations, kohlrabi and elderflower jelly by Rogers whets our appetite and Frith's Apatu Aqua snapper and Totara North crayfish ravioli with warrigal and bisque is a seamless transition.
Honore follows with a long bush pork and scampi, Jerusalem artichokes, coastal greens, bay leaf foam, while Frith serves a mushroom-crusted Easterbrook Duck, cracker, pickled mushrooms, watercress and radish.
Fiordland Venison loin, beetroot, walnut, cocoa nib, sage jus by Rogers is the fifth course of the evening. Honore follows with Hawke's Bay lamb, celeriac, pekepeke kiore, olive, truffle and thyme jus.
Blood orange mousse, rhubarb, ewe's milk yoghurt and ginger sorbet finished us up and we sat discussing our gourmet meal and delighting in the fact that with all the delicate and sophisticated flavours and portioning, we felt complete.