‘The essence of surfing’

LOGGING ON: Seen here hanging five in the 2018 surf nationals, Daniel Proctor won the inaugural West End Wiggle surf competition at Ohope over the weekend. The competition was dedicated to 1960s style, single-fin surfboards known as logs. Picture by Paul Rickard

A surfing competition dedicated to 1960s style, single-fin surfboards known colloquially as dungas or logs was won by a Gisborne man.

Daniel Procter was part of a group of Gisborne log riders called the Dune Dogz, who competed in the West End Wiggle surf competition at Ohope over the weekend.

Although other commitments meant Procter had not surfed for some time, and he was about 10 years older than the other competitors, his moves landed him the win.

“I'm just happy I've still got it,” he said. “The level of surfing was super-high. It's a cool event with a great vibe.”

The log is said to be board design on which the “sport of kings” began in Hawaii — an unrefined piece of redwood with one fin and no rocker (nose-to-tail curve in the board).

Interest in bringing back the spirit, style and design associated with long, straight surfboards of the ‘60s has become a global phenomenon.

Like the Makorori First Light Longboard Surfing Classic — which has a mix of modern longboards and dungas — Logger Heads at Mangawhai and the coveted, invitation-only Single Fin Mingle at Christchurch's Sumner Beach, Ohope's inaugural log competition attracted surfers from overseas and around the country.

“Log riding is a lifestyle,” said Procter.

“It's more than a sport. It's part of waking up, having breakfast and checking the surf. Now it's back and popular it's almost the in-thing.”

While many logs have been pulled out of storage, recovered from under the house or retrieved from shed rafters, surfboard shapers are creating new logs based on the 1960s design and weight (more than eight kilograms).

“It's a different way of board riding,” said Procter. “You're riding something of substance. You're riding a Cadillac on the water, you're riding a style.

“You use the full length of the board to ride it with flow. You have to be strategic in the way to pace the wave. Because you have more volume in the board you have to be creative.

“It's a gracious, almost regal way of surfing. It was the sport of Hawaiian kings and queens. Logging is a return to the essence of the surfing.

“There's a machismo about having a bigger board. With more time on the board your character comes out. You're able to tell different stories.”

The crowning event, the Single Fin Mingle, has been cancelled this year due to the escalation in vigilance around the spread of coronavirus.

The Single Fin Mingle's founding father Ambrose McNeil is said to scout logging events around the world for competitors for the Christchurch-based competition. The chosen are sent invitations.

“You can win a logging competition but not qualify,” said Procter.

He likened the invites to that sent by Hogwarts to boy wizard Harry Potter.

“It has that mystery about it. You get a letter to say you're invited to the Mingle.

“I'm still waiting for mine.”