“It was only small waves but to be able to surf pretty much pain-free, it was an incredible feeling. It meant that I knew I could do it again.”
Quinn has surfed at the highest level.
In 2001, he became the first New Zealander to qualify for the World Championship Tour, becoming one of the world’s top 44 ranked male surfers.
It had been just under five months since an accident on Māhia Beach that could have paralysed or even killed the NZ surfing legend.
“When I was lying in hospital it did go through my mind a few times: ‘Am I going to be able surf well again?’.
“I definitely have a new perspective now, and I will never take being able to surf for granted.”
Quinn has clear memories of June 28 at Māhia Beach.
“There were only four or five guys out there and it was a beautiful sunny day. The waves were cooking. I literally couldn’t get out there fast enough.”
Quinn says over the years Māhia has forged a reputation. If you get it wrong, it has consequences.
“It’s a break that has taken a few people down over the years.”
After around two hours in the surf, Quinn didn’t quite make the drop and instead was plunged to the bottom and smacked his torso and back on the rocks.
“The first whack was pretty violent. I knew I was in trouble straight away. It was a big bang and it got worse and worse every minute that passed.”
Quinn was washed into the beach by the surf but was unable to walk, so was forced to make a painful 20-minute crawl up the beach until he was noticed.
He was eventually spotted by another person, who notified his wife Ngahuia.
They then came across an off-duty paramedic who was able to get paramedics from St John Māhia down to the beach within minutes.
It was Ngahuia’s first time watching Quinn surf the Māhia break.
“She saw someone walking up the beach with my board but I wasn’t with it so she started freaking out,” Quinn says.
“By that stage I couldn’t yell out to them because it was way too sore to talk. There was long grass up in the dunes so no one could see me lying on the beach in pain.”
Quinn was airlifted by the Eastland Rescue Helicopter to Gisborne Hospital.
He fractured four bones in his lower back, broke four ribs and tore his rotator cuff.
“I was in a huge amount of pain, but I was lucky,” he says. “The doctor told me if the impact had been a few inches either side, it would have damaged my spinal cord and then it would have been a very different story.”
Around a week later, Quinn hobbled out of Gisborne Hospital with the support of a Zimmer frame.
He was scared about what the future might hold. The progress was slow at first and hard going as he learned how to walk.
But with constant work with his medical team and physiotherapists, Quinn worked towards his goal of getting back on the board.
“ACC has been there for every step of my recovery, which has been epic. Even now I am going to physio once a week and they are supporting that,” he says.
“It’s times like this, when you are injured, that you realise you are pretty lucky to live in New Zealand and have that support of ACC.”
ACC claims data shows that surfing is the leading cause of water-related injuries in Aotearoa.
In 2022, ACC accepted 6249 surfing-related claims at a cost of $12 million to help people recover.
This was the highest number of claims and cost for the past five years.
ACC injury prevention leader James Whitaker says anyone who enters the surf needs to respect the ocean.
“I’ve surfed around Aotearoa for over 30 years and I’m still humbled by some of the situations I find myself in,” he says.
Whitaker says the best way to stay safe in the surf is to take a moment before you get stuck in.
“Monitor the conditions and the risks before you get out there, then take the safest options. If you’re in doubt finding something else to do might be the best option,” he says.
Quinn agrees.
“If you have any doubt, then don’t go out,” he says.. “I know it’s hard sometimes when the surf is really good and that is how you get better — by pushing yourself — but you need to make sure you are building gradually.
“Weigh up the skill level you have with the waves you are about to surf. It is ok to say no if you don’t feel comfortable.”
Advice from Surfing NZ
Surf within your skill level — if in doubt, don’t paddle out.
Use the correct surfboard for your ability and the conditions.
Make sure you keep your equipment in good condition — any open dings can cause injury.
Check your leash for cuts and check the leash string where it goes into your deck plug to make sure it is not worn.
Never ditch your board – your board is a flotation device and it will bring you back to the surface.
If you are a novice get a lesson from a Surfing New Zealand approved surf school or qualified surf coach – it’s the fastest and safest way to improve your surfing.
