GisVin chief winemaker reveals long-term effects and challenges after Cyclone Gabrielle devastates Gisborne wine industry

This vineyard at Te Karaka was among others in the district that suffered inundation when Cyclone Gabrielle hit in February. Gisborne Winegrowers chairman Mark Thompson says the 2023 season would have left many in Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay wondering if it was worth it battling to get compromised fruit off the vine after the storm. Picture by Rebecca Grunwell

The impact of Cyclone Gabrielle on the wine industry will be long lasting, says GisVin chief winemaker and chairman of Gisborne Winegrowers Mark Thompson.

Like Hawke’s Bay, Gisborne received around two-and-a-half times the long-term average rainfall for the three months up to April 13, including the disastrous cyclone event on February 14..

In his post-harvest report Mr Thompson said flooding from cyclones Hale and Gabrielle meant some vineyards could not be accessed for harvest, while incessant rainfall had consequences for fruit quantity and quality.

“Meanwhile, the cyclone-destroyed road between Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay meant juice destined for Hawke’s Bay wineries, or further south, could not be reliably transported over vintage.

“So we ended up having to make the wines for them at GisVin and then send it out as finished wine, which is what we’re doing at the moment.”

Mr Thompson estimates Gisborne lost 40 percent of its crop.

“That’s due to this year’s all round bad growing season, culminating in a cyclonic weather event.

“For GisVin, unharvested fruit was destined for big tanks, while the juicing contracts were for small volumes, so we have had literally no tank space up until this week when we have started moving wine out.

“That’s meant huge amounts of shuffling and logistics and operations managers like me pulling what’s left of their hair out.”

In his report, Mr Thompson said with hindsight, many in Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay will be wondering whether it is worth battling to get compromised fruit in in the wake of the storm

“Seriously, I think we would just leave them on the vine, for the extra money and heartache it cost us.

“But there are some great good news stories amid the later ripening varieties, including chardonnay and some reds that have been brilliant,” he said.

“But you cannot take away from the fact that you have a huge volume of compromised aromatic whites.”

Later ripening white varieties like chardonnay, while low yielding, provided fantastic flavours.

“Albarino also shows some lovely characters and good flavours, and the red varieties such as merlot, malbec, and montepulciano all show great promise.

Mr Thompson said that like many of the country’s wine regions, Gisborne growers were “very, very happy” about the switch to the El Nino weather pattern, hoping for a classic East Coast grape growing season and vintage in 2024, with lots of sunshine and drier weather.