WONDERS OF ANGKOR WAT

A gateway to an ancient world: Cambodia’s iconic landmark with reflection in water. This is the front entrance to the temple. Picture supplied

Amidst its colossal beauty and sacred significance, Mike Yardley discovers the secrets and captivating tales of Angkor Wat.

It’s been 30 years since the Angkor Archaeological Park was declared a World Heritage site. But amid the stash of temples and ornate structures prised out of the jungle, Angkor Wat is the most timeless anchor of wonder.

On a previous visit to Angkor Wat, my Wendy Wu Tours guide looked horrified when I went to swat a critter that landed on my nose. “It’s a butterfly!” I had assumed it was a more menacing buzzard, but his life-saving plea for mercy stopped me from taking abrupt action. The butterfly was a vivid black and green winged beauty, which fluttered away into the pale refuge of the temple’s interior. Yes, butterflies are sacred creatures in this spiritually-charged sanctuary. After all, Angkor Wat was rediscovered 150 years ago by a French naturalist, Henri Mouhot, while searching for butterflies.

Gazing in awe of one of the world’s most recognisable landmarks doesn’t require you to take in the sunrise after an ungodly wake-up call at 4am. It may be a tourist pastime, but chances are, if you have my luck, you’ll strike cloud and heaving throngs of tourists. Plan a visit to Angkor Wat in the early afternoon for a less-trafficked experience. That is one of the huge advantages of touring Angkor with Wendy Wu Tours. Their precision planning and in-the-know local expertise delivers a far more rewarding and effortless affair. The dimensions of the temple compound are staggering, covering an area of 1500 metres by 1300 metres.

Knowing where to go and what to see within this emblematic behemoth is rather handy. As the world’s largest religious monument, proudly emblazoned on the Cambodian flag, Angkor Wat was the spiritual centre of the Khmer empire, that lorded over the region from the 9th to the 15 centuries. The city of Angkor and its surrounding areas housed up to one million residents at its height in the 13th century, and at the time, it would have ranked as the largest city in the world. Dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu and built in the 12th century by King Suryavarman II, and later transformed into a Buddhist temple, Angkor Wat’s colossal western entrance is flanked by balustrades of gigantic serpents which apparently represent cosmic fertility.

Admiring the five spires of the main temple, reaching over 65 metres in height, reflected in the waters of the pond, is an indelible experience. Acclaimed for its intricate ornamentation, harmony and striking beauty, Angkor Wat symbolises the Hindu cosmos, with a temple mountain at its heart and the vast wrap-around moats representing the seven oceans that surround Mt. Meru, the mythical home of the Hindu gods. The five beehive-like spires form a giant lotus bud at the centre of the complex. Steep staircases will haul you up to the higher perches and incredible panoramas over the sheer immensity of Angkor Wat. Take it slowly in the heat of the day!

The terraces are decorated with images of Hindu deities, many of which have sadly lost their heads to looters during the Khmer Rouge regime. But the artistry of the temple hits its zenith in the extensive bas-relief work that famously covers its walls. Don’t miss the first-level reliefs depicting the mythical “Churning of the Ocean of Milk,” a legend in which Hindu deities stir vast oceans in order to extract the elixir of immortality. This churning produced the apsaras, Hindu celestial dancers. Roughly 2000 of them are liberally scattered throughout the temple.

Other reliefs surrounding the base of the main temple illustrate epic Khmer wars and an audience given by the king. If the architectural richness and grandeur sounds all a bit Tomb Raider — bingo — the 2001 blockbuster, featuring Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft, was filmed extensively here. Angkor Wat’s secrets continue to unfurl. Excavations and restoration of the jungle-enveloped city are still ongoing like an infinity labour of love. My guide remarked the German teams are the most meticulous restorers, while the Chinese and Indian crews are a little too “rough and ready.” New discoveries are being made using new technologies, such as radar imaging.

The scale of Angkor becomes larger and larger as excavation continues, and it is believed the ruins extend to some 1000 sq km. Recent excavation work revealed wooden residences within Angkor Wat’s moat, believed to have been home to 3000 elites. Even after the king moved the capital city southwards to Phnom Penh in the mid-15th century, people continued to live there for over a century. Interestingly, one of the main reasons contributing to Angkor’s long decline was climate change, with a devastating drought in the 14th century.

The arrangement of Angkor’s main temples corresponds to the stars in the Draco (dragon) constellation. Every spring and autumnal equinox at Angkor Wat is a major draw, as people flock to watch the sun rise exactly over the pinnacle of the temple’s central tower. It’s a cosmic classic. Wendy Wu Tours offers a wealth of touring options in Cambodia, whether you’re looking for an extensive multi-day journey or private day-trip. You’ll love the passion, informality and knowledgeable insights of your guides. Book a touring option that best suits your desires.

www.wendywutours.co.nz