Day 1 Arriving in Porto I was greeted by the warmth of a Portuguese summer and the smiling Louisa from the tour company. I was handed a detailed itinerary, a log-in for Ride with GPS app and promptly transferred 60km north to my hotel in the seaside city of Povoa de Varzim.
Keen to see the sights of the coastal city before starting my walk the following day, I wasted no time in heading off to explore, making sure to check out a couple of dinner options.
Later that evening my choice of dining in a seaside restaurant paid off, with the most stunning sunset I was able to capture, though left my meal and wine to do so.
Povoa is one of Portugal’s best natural ports and a main fishing port of the north since the 18th century. The large fortress, Castelo da Povoa, was built in the 15th century to protect the town from pirates.
Day 2 Armed with my app and daypack I set off, walking to the seaside village of Apulia. A mixture of boardwalks, cobblestone roads and footpaths followed the coast, and on this section I passed beautifully crafted stone windmills, dating back to the 19th century.
Day 3 By the end of day three I had blisters on top of blisters on the balls of my feet, thanks to the uneven surface of more cobbled paths. Determined to see the sights of my new destination of Esposende, I rented a bike and had a wonderful time exploring the outer sights as well as the heart of the town, where a huge children’s festival was being held.
Day 4 After a mixed day of walking through villages and working farms, I arrived at my accommodation, Quinta do Monteverde, in Castelo do Neiva. Walking uphill through narrow cobbled streets, I found the 17th century manor house which had been beautifully renovated. It was meticulously maintained, surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens and an expansive orchard.
Another great find in Castelo do Neiva was a café, further up the hill, where the lovely young host spoke English and was kept busy through the afternoon mixing jugs of Champarriao, a frothy concoction of beer, red wine, and brown sugar for passing locals.
Day 5 Keeping my daypack close was a priority, so I chose a patrolled beach —Praia do Cabedelo, 8km from Castelo do Neiva and just ahead of my next stop. I cheekily asked a lifeguard if he would mind my gear while I took a dip in the icy cold Atlantic Ocean —so invigorating!
Arriving in Viana do Castelo I immediately knew I wanted to spend more time exploring the city, so decided to forego walking the following day and find alternative transport to the next town. This gave me extra hours of exploring before travelling to Vila Praia de Ancora.
There were so many interesting sights in the city of 85,000 including the cable car up to Santa Lucia Church and the towering costume museum, Museu do Traje which housed a magnificent display of traditional costumes, with easy-to-read information panels of costume history through the ages.
Day 6 Setting off on my 10-minute train ride for the bargain of €2.20, I was pleased to have made the decision the previous day. Despite arriving in a very damp Vila Praia de Ancora, my day was significantly brightened after stepping off the train, welcomed by flowering pink petunias everywhere — a stunning sight on a dull grey day.
Day 7 Situated on the banks of Minho River, with Spain just across the water, Caminha has a population of less than 20,000. Arriving in the town square I was curious to know why the streets were exquisitely decorated with colourful floral displays.
It wasn’t long before I found myself, very unexpectedly, in the middle of the annual Corpus Christi national parade. I watched this spectacular event, delighted to have beautifully crafted replicas of the costumes I had pored over two days earlier, being paraded right in front of me.
After navigating my way from Povoa de Varzim to Caminha, I travelled the 200km by bus back to the tourist-heavy Porto, and spent a couple of big walking days exploring the city and local markets, before heading south to Lisbon where I visited the amazing, multimedia, immersive biography exhibition of artist Frida Kahlo.
Possibly the biggest bonus of travelling solo is the freedom to do what you want, when you want, deciding what to explore and of course, eat, when and where you choose. I have found a freedom and fulfilment when travelling solo. It was a time when I was tuned in and fully aware of my surroundings, attentive to detail, and having a confidence to step outside my comfort zone.
If you decide to set off solo, have confidence in your planning and be prepared to be amazed.
• Tour company: www.innwalking.com
