Echoes of Buller Bay’s glory days

Kawatiri coastal trail coastline: Five of the eight sections of the Kawatiri Coastal Trail are already open, enabling people to ride from Westport as far as Okari, on the 21km route. The spectacular all-seasons trail can be ridden in either direction, or split into shorter chunks, for leisurely strolls and rides.

Still in the South Island, Mike Yardley continues his journey and heads for Westport . . .

Sizing up a spring roadie on the West Coast? Just south of Westport, Cape Foulwind Lighthouse stands sentinel-like on the headland – a totem to so much history.

It was where Abel Tasman first dropped anchor in New Zealand in 1642 and the Cape earned its name from the operatically howling weather that serenaded James Cook on his foray here in 1770. It’s also the closest point to Australia. The sweeping panoramas are stupendous. I gazed north along the coastline to Omau Cliffs, strikingly sculpted cliff-backed beaches, where hard granite intersects with softer mudstone, glowing a golden hue in the sunshine.

To the east, the inland ancient marine terraces rise up to the Paparoa Ranges, while patches of pākihi are readily identifiable. This widely adopted Māori name in Buller denotes stunted vegetation on swampy ground. On a clear day, Mt Cook serrates the southern horizon, while Kahurangi National Park towers to the north. Take the 90-minute coastal walk from Cape Foulwind south to Tauranga Bay, along the edge of an escarpment, serving up monster views of the rugged coastline. Alternatively, drive around to the golden sweep of Tauranga Bay, to take the shorter track from the car park to the seal colony.

The 10-minute walk up to the headland leads to the lookout points of the seal colony, draped across the wave-battered rocks, below. A rocky outcrop called Wall Island is like a satellite town to seal city and the thoughtfully mounted free-to-use binoculars provide stirring glimpses of the playful fur seals.

Pointing the car north, pass through Westport to Denniston. I drove up to the top of the 700-metre plateau, where a few scratchings remain of what was once a bustling mountain village, a coal-mining community living in the clouds. At its peak, Denniston was home to 1500 residents, just over a century ago. The star attraction is the Denniston Incline, one of New Zealand’s greatest engineering feats, which opened in 1879. This outrageously steep rail track system, which tilts at 45 degrees, was built to carry coal from the Rochfort Plateau down to Conns Creek, 518 metres below. It was one of the steepest railways in the world.

Empty coal wagons were hauled back up the slope by the weight of the descending loaded wagons. It was a counter-balancing triumph and the only way in and out of Denniston until the road was built in 1900. Not only did it transport coal, but people, furniture and all manner of goods. The Denniston Incline finally closed in 1967, but many vestiges of its guts and glory remain in situ, including the huge brake drum and some of the wagons at the top of the incline. An absorbing sequence of interpretation panels are scattered across the site, charting the epic history here.

The horizon-searching views across the region and coast from the lofty plateau are incomparable.

More echoes of the glory days are speckled all the way up the Buller Bay coastline, where pastoral greens give way to the pounding surf in rustically charming settlements like Granity, Millerton, Ngakawau, Hector and Mokihinui.

Back in Westport, blaze some new trails. One of New Zealand’s latest multi-day walking and cycling trails is already wowing the crowds on its completed sections. Primarily funded by the Provincial Growth Fund, the Kawatiri Coastal Trail is a 55 km heritage trail which will eventually connect Westport to Charleston, via Carters Beach, Cape Foulwind and Tauranga Bay. Five of the eight sections are already open, enabling people to ride from Westport as far as Okari, on the 21km route. The spectacular all-seasons trail can be ridden in either direction, or split into shorter chunks, for leisurely strolls and rides. In the final section that’s open, from the Nile Rover to Charleston, the suspension bridge over the Nile at Joyce Bay is a fan favourite.

Also, check out the Kawatiri River and Beach Trails in Westport, which include a fabulous boardwalk over the harbour basin leading you to a lagoon and Shingle Beach, while the beach trail loops around North Beach. They are a joy to explore, accentuating Westport’s connection with its watery surrounds.

Reward yourself with a hearty dose of gourmet indulgence at the West Coast Pie Company, a celebration of the West Coast’s legendary love-affair with wild meat.

Specialising in hand-harvested premium wild game pies, their range includes spiced wild nanny goat; wild goat and mint sauce; cumin spiced wild Himalayan tahr; wild rabbit leek and cider; wild hare mushroom and mustard; and a selection of wild venison pies.

Smack bang in the heart of town, the Bella Vista Motel Westport is Qualmark 4 star endorsed and offers 18 self-contained and fully serviced units to choose from. Options include studio and one bedroom units, all with convenient parking on your doorstep. Choose from king, queen or single beds with electric blankets for the cooler nights. Creature comforts include in-room cooking facilities, tea/coffee, free wifi, 50+ Sky TV channels, a DVD library, and continental breakfasts can be provided. www.bellavista.co.nz/westport

Strike out on a wonderful escape to the untamed natural wilderness of the West Coast this spring and summer. For more trip inspiration, head to https://westcoast.co.nz