A delightful walk

Unbridled Symphony: A view upstream from Motu Falls suspension bridge, where rapids dance and fall.Picture by Gillian Ward

Gloves were needed when Gisborne Canoe and Tramping Club members set off on a cold morning in late July to walk through the Whinray Scenic Reserve. Gillian Ward takes up the story.

The track which winds through Whinray Scenic Reserve was built as a road — being for thirty years part of the only formed route between Ōpōtiki and Gisborne. The road was designed for the transport of the time — horses pulling drays. Now it is a beautiful track which follows a gentle gradient below tall native forest.

The Gisborne Canoe and Tramping Club walked from Motu Falls, where a suspension bridge crosses the river, to Marumoko Road and back again on a cold, still day in late July. There was a good frost on the road edges and paddocks, with frozen roadside puddles, as we drove along Motu Road to Motu. Gloves were needed as we started walking.

This bush track was cut through by armed constabulary and other works teams from 1872 – 1877, working from the Ōpōtiki side. In June 1877, the Editor of the Bay of Plenty Times writes in “Local and General News” about the completion of the new bridge at Motu Falls, “From what we can learn, the road, which it may be mentioned is at present only cut to a width of eight feet, is passable for travellers on horseback in fine weather, but is the roughest of roads to travel when the contrary is the case.” It is noted that, “continual supervision will be necessary to keep it clear from obstructions caused by falling trees and landslips.” The route was known as the Ōpōtiki and Ormond Road. It went from east of Ōpōtiki up to the Whitikau and Marumoko valleys and through what is now Whinray Reserve.

Jim Robinson has written an article for New Zealand Today, “Out of the Mist: Motu Falls Bridges”, about the history of bridges constructed at Motu Falls. You can read this article on the Motu Trails facebook page. The 1877 bridge at Motu Falls was swept away in a massive flood in 1892, and there would be two further road bridges constructed at this site. Then, in the early 1900s the Motu Road was constructed following a new route, including a new bridge over the Motu River at Motu settlement, and although the earlier route continued to be used it fell into disrepair.

As you walk along the track in Whinray Reserve you see the bush reclaiming the old road formation. There are many young trees of 100 years old or so growing on the old roadway, and sprouting out from the cuttings. The bench track was well constructed and has been well maintained in recent years, with only a few slightly muddy sections — remarkable after the recent extremely wet weather. The stream crossings have new wooden bridges and recent slips have tracks formed across them. Our group found it a delightful walk. It is a “there and back” walk but easily done in four hours at a gentle pace.

There are information signboards at the Motu Falls picnic area, at the start of the track. We learned that the reserve is a rare example of the type of forest that originally covered the entire district. It has never been milled and as a result of this giant rimu, tōtara, matai, miro and kahikatea can be seen towering above the forest canopy. Whinray Ecological Charitable Trust and Department of Conservation have established a network of frequently monitored pest traps throughout the reserve and kiwi and weka, along with bellbird, tūī, tomtit, kererū and ruru as well as less common species like rifleman, robin, falcon, kākā, and whitehead, thrive here. Other native species that live here include long-tailed bat, forest gecko, green gecko, striped skink, copper skink, Hochstetter’s frog, tree, ground and cave weta, and there are native fish such as kōaro in the streams.

The Motu Falls suspension bridge was opened in 1994 and from the bridge you have a magnificent view of the Motu River with the falls just upstream and rapids downstream, as well as the tall native forest in the reserve. This is a beautiful reserve with a walking track very suitable for families, just 1½ hours drive from Gisborne, and really worth a visit.